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Even if it gets ordered, will it be the quality lumber you expect or even the correct amount? I think it's well past time to ditch this guy

Someone here had a thread about the matte paint on the Dannmar version causing binding. Sanded it smooth and refinished it to get it running smoothly.

This whole thread seems tone-deaf. Don't try to truly heat your shop until it's insulated, set it for 45 or something. Save some power capacity for the rest of your state. Do your part.

Yes they are lockable. You could probably fit a hood under it, depending on the car. It would only save you a hood-length of storage versus pulling in bumper to bumper, though.

I missed the bold tidbit, sorry about that. Yes, adding a cheap unmanaged switch at your router would give you those extra connections you need. I think VLANs, pfsense, mesh, Unifi controller, all that stuff is over-complicating a simple network. I like my unifi stuff but it's not...

Honestly, my Craftsman 165 pc. Mechanics Tool Set has served me well for the last 6 years. It was about $100 when I got it from Sears. It has a solid case and a good range of sockets, wrenches, and screwdriver bits. It does not have torx or allen sockets. It does not have any pliers or cutters...

Hardwired is always better if you can do it. I would do like so, since the NVR already has PoE ports: If using a router with DHCP disabled (essentially a wireless switch or Access Point), make sure you plug into LAN ports 1-4 and not the internet or WAN port.

I would use a TP-Link wifi outlet HS105, which can pair with a multitude of services, use standalone app, or follow a predefined schedule. They can also link with other Kasa devices so you could have a smart light switch turn on the pump as well.

I think it's BS that you have to email a VP to get a timely response from the company.

:rocker:

You didn't mention if you did, but oftentimes you need to reboot both the modem and the router so that the modem assigns the WAN IP address to the new router.

If you want to save some money, I would spend some more time trying to access your shop router's config page. Wired connection is easiest, but most operating systems will ignore a connection with no internet by default so turn off your other adapters. You'll want to navigate to your adapter...

But he already has ethernet pulled from his house to the shop...

The stock firmware will work fine for your purposes. No need to go down the path of dd-wrt or OpenWRT or Merlin or Tomato or any of those other 3rd-party firmwares unless you decide you're having stability problems, or you just want to get fancy, like adding VPN capability to a router that was...

You're almost there! Like I said, I recommend disabling DHCP on your shop router and plugging into a LAN port (some routers have an AP mode which does the same thing, it depends). Your router in the house will issue IP addresses and do the routing. The shop wireless should just be passing...

I would turn off DHCP on your shop router and plug the cable into a LAN port. That way it's essentially a wireless switch or access point. WAN will do another layer of routing, which should give you internet but no visibility between shop devices and home devices. Have you confirmed, by plugging...

My understanding is that UV protection is the main reason to buy outdoor cable. In conduit, it will be protected. The outdoor cable usually requires larger-than-standard RJ45 connectors, FYI. I would pull the standard stuff, cat5e is probably fine for your uses: "I don't need a high speed...

Run the copper, ethernet is good for about 330 ft. It's the solid choice

Terro liquid baits for inside, Amdro granules for outside hills

I use this on pegboard https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-5-in-Peggable-Vinyl-Coated-Power-Tool-Holder-1-8-in-Peg-17959/202249705