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^^^ I think you're right on the money with the race ramps, and won't need the blocking because the race ramps have the space designed in. Based on the pictures it seems like that's exactly what they were designed for.

I get plenty of signal strength and throughput on my UAP-AC-Lite. Mounted in the basement, it covers my basement and first floor with ease. I have a UAP-AC-LR in the upstairs. 230 Mbps from both which is what I pay for. Obviously that speed drops as you move farther away, through walls, etc. But...

I would go with Bendpak or DirectLift/Forward/Rotary for that price range. Dannmar is out of business now, bought by Bendpak. If I were shopping again I'd buy a Forward EFP9. ALSO keep in mind that Bendpak needs compressed air to operate the locks. Do you have an air compressor? Also check out...

I cut up an old power strip once to make a pigtail, the wire colors in the molded plug were Brown, Blue, Green/Yellow, but the Brown went to the Neutral spade and Blue went to hot. That is absolutely NOT the IEC standard color coding, so now I ohm out any pigtail I make before plugging it in...

It's the simple things in life.

Home depot 5 gallon buckets with lids. Stackable and fit on a shelf well

Looks like this is now available to order, for those interested.

Right, I'm making it bottom operational because the top drifts over time due to its age. I don't see anything broken and it's probably time for new springs but securing the top sash shut when I don't even use it is what makes the most sense due to cost. Screws and blocks are most easily...

All the ones I've examined have both springs still attached. They don't sag immediately under their own weight, just drift over time. Like the springs have lost some tension. Manufacturer unknown, I didn't find any names on the sashes when I pulled them out. Where would I look for that info? I...

My house has 20-yr-old double-hung windows that are getting a little tired. The top sashes will sag until resting on the latch as the house goes through the heating and cooling of a normal day. They all seem to slide pretty well when I want them to. Using HVAC almost all the time, I have no need...

Do you not torque your epoxy anchors with no load on the lift? I don't understand. If you torque your epoxy anchor and your wedge anchor to the same ft-lbs, do they not both load the concrete (but in different fashions)? You make it sound like your epoxy anchors are hand-tight

Well, this *****. I haven't even had my Dannmar D-7/X a year yet. I would go Direct-Lift or Forward if I was going to do it again.

Why do you need to identify it?

Newer ones will blink the light a different color to indicate which one set off the alarm or has a low battery. All will make noise but only the triggered ones will indicate. What does your local code require for smoke alarms? NFPA says they should be interconnected

Ridgid with their lifetime service agreement that covers batteries.

Yep, powerline kit through the house to get near the conduit, then hardwire out to a wireless AP near the shop.

I used these, DeWalt Screwbolt +. It made a huge difference in the stability of the lift and my confidence in using it. Rock-solid now and worth every penny, greatly preferable to wedge or epoxy anchors because no studs sticking out if I need to remove them.

Really like the Dewalt Screwbolt + that I used on my lift http://anchors.dewalt.com/anchors/products/mechanical-anchors/screw-anchors/screw-boltplus.php

^^^This is everything

I know this is a zombie thread, but this was a great tip that helped me out this summer.