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Correction: 4'x50' R19 rolls are $200/each. Another place has 2'x8' batts at $.57/sq ft. Faced.

Location? Did you cover your walls? Mine just finished up today. 3 days, 3 man crew 24x36x12. So I have house wrap between the metal siding and the perlins. Not taped. They used a 4ft roll for wainscoting and 8 ft roll for the rest. So theres obviously air leak around the whole building. I...

Hamburg. I was quoted $10k for 2 inch spray foam. No thanks. I plan on heating but nothing crazy, 45-50° during the winter. Down the road though. This year is building, electric, hopefully concrete. I don't have a problem using blown in for ceiling then prob either batts or large rolls of...

Nobody huh?

I'm leaning towards 24"x96" 6" thick batts at 57 cents sq ft. They only have faced though, they can order 6'x100' rolls of insulation but he didnt have pricing.

Buffalo NY

My pole barn is going up this week, 24x36x12. I plan on doing blown in and probably liner panels for ceiling and I'm thinking either the wide rolls of fiberglass insulation for pole barns or just regular batts covered woth either osb or liner panel. Depending on cost of liner panel. My question...

I got 1 estimate for concrete. No site work $8k. Usually I dp all the prep and then I call a guy I know and he gets a crew together and I just pay them to pour and finish. I buy screens, stone and I do the forms.

They're from Leon NY. I'm just south of Buffalo, amish communities are 40 min away from me. Yes $15k 24x36x12. I buy windows and man doors, they install. So price is for building only. Just started getting estimates on site work. Holy ****!! It's going where An old gravel parking pad was...

I wish it were that easy. The Concrete floor is shot and it's a floating slab. Not thicker around the edges and no footer. Only way to replace it is to jack it up.

That's what I'm going to do. I'll brace the beam with 2x from the ridge and also throw a post under it. Remove doors and center column, reframe door and attach beam to header.

Garage is 22x32

Yes I have only 8 inches above door to bottom of the beam.

I won't be using it for storage, I don't have much up there now and my pole barn will be built this spring. I'll have storage in there. I should've re worded my original question and asked how to accomplish a bigger door with my current framing. I assumed that beam was doing alot more...

Only thing I'm trying to accomplish is a wider garage door without my roof caving in haha. Alot has to do with how this garage was built, there's pieces of wood scabbed in all over. That beam has a turnbuckle cable (no idea why) only a 2x6 header over the current doors. All these things has me...

I didn't think about the hangers having no strength in that direction, thank you for pointing that out. If I can remove the beam by bracing each joist, then that is an easy solution.

I'm terrible at explaining through messages lol. The beam is holding the joists. The beam is braced by a 2x6 at each end like a jack stud only, from what i can tell. If I want 1 -16ft door then I have to remove the 2x6 that the beam is sitting on and put a header in for the 16ft door. Problem...

The current header like I mentioned above, is not continuous. It butts up to the 2x6 stud that the beam rests on. I only have 92 inches from floor to underside of beam. I'm order to span 16ft, I'd need atleast 2 2x10s or 2x12s. I would think. I only have 8 inches above door unless I raise...

All I'm really trying to do is build temporary wall on both sides of the beam so I can cut the joists and either move the current beam up or replace it all together and let it rest on top of new garage door header. I would use joist hangers in order to get the height I need to replace header...

Yeah I was wondering why they would only use 1 2x6 on each end of this beam to hold it up. I Just went off what it looked like and to me it looked like it was definitely holding up the ceiling Joists. I appreciate the help.