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Are you using a series 2 side cabinet with series 1 box? trying to otherwise figure out the staggered framing setup.

38-40 is what I would call typical standing height for a workbench or countertop. the math is pretty simple though. 2x4 on short side x 2 = 3", add 3/4" for the leveling feet, then 1-1/2" for the top and 34 for the box = 38 to 38-1/2?

That puts your working height around 38"?

even worse if you're insistent on having both 6-point and 12-points... of a size because you never know :wtf:

Get some of the removable casters and some leveling feet. Install leveling feet as permanent solution, put the casters on to move it as needed. I’m planning that sort of assembly for a collapsible work table in the near future. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Based on Jim’s location I’m sure it’s based on zoning laws etc.

in a well ventilated area free from open flames: flip it over and place top in tub of acetone and let it soak.

Alternate is skylight. Or install a window with privacy film on it (what I’m in the process of doing) Windows in the garage door are useful for letting in some light as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've got a couple of those in my garage as well. plenty bright, but the switches are a bit finicky at time.

I’ve been on the One+ 18V platform since 2001. Almost 20 years now. I no longer have my first set (drill + flashlight + 2 NiCad batteries). But have expanded my collection significantly in the last few years. My oldest tools date back to when they first started swapping to the lime green.

I’ve got a couple of Irwin’s that have lasted me 10+ years. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s a viable solution for a light duty bench. Most of the commercially available desk/furniture legs are designed with a relatively low maximum weight loading (think a person’s weight) They’re also designed to function in fixed pairs at maximum distances from one another (think 72-84” max)...

.250 wall is ¼” and likely overkill. .010 is less than 1/64th. I think most wind up between 1/8th and ¼. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

honestly with that lip there and the fact that you built the bench the full depth of that lip, there's no sense in it being cantilevered. you could square it off underneath and make it storage shelves for your bins.

In the DC area Clark has been mandating them for at least three years now to all of their employees. They’re the typical hard hat in Japan and a good chunk of Europe already, which is why you see some of the big international contractors like Skanska and Turner pushing them in the US now...

Quite a few here. Includes: ¼” impact driver - P236 ⅜” impact wrench - P263 ½” impact wrench - P261 6-½” circular saw - P507 5-½” circular saw - P501G 18ga Brad nailer - P320 Glue gun - P305 Reciprocating saw - P514 Palm router - P601 Orbital sander - P411 2x ½” drill/driver - P270G, P271 ½”...

Midway into a rebuild/restructure. Center opening is large enough to fit a US General 44” Cabinet. Right opening is going to get a shortened 5 drawer series 1 cart (need to cut 6-½” out of the legs to get it under). Left drawer still needs work to house rest of my Ryobi tools. Mostly home...

my bench has a melamine top. cheap, easily replaced. Only downfall is the chipping on the edges. Thinking I might go over it with laminate in the future if I can find a 10' sheet to make it continuous.

pretty much how my house functions with a few devices that are present on both networks. my fios router provides the home control network using its built in wifi. internet traffic is covered by a google mesh system. There's 3-4 devices hard wired into a switch in my basement that connects...

I'd look at it this way; If i'm stacking two vehicles in a row, one is going to be a daily use, the other would be an occasional use. So what's the biggest daily driver? crew cab pickup probably? 20'? What's likely as an occasional use vehicle? vintage coupe? modern coupe? 16'? I'd want...