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yes swaging tool , if it were a bushing or seal driver the steps would be 90 degrees

Part # OU812 , on sale this week for $2300.

I just recently repaired a Milwaukee drill that had a bad trigger , didn't want to pay the $40 + dollars for the correct switch so I bought a $10 Milwaukee switch from a non reversing drill and simply cut the reversing part off the original switch that was still good and glued it on top...

if its only for occasional use you might consider brazing a t25 to the end of some round stock as long as you like. Silver brazing works good for this

try putting marvel mystery oil into the cylinders , let it soak a day or two then put some in the crankcase , worked on few oil burning car over the years. If that don't work put some BG fuel injector cleaner in the cylinders , let soak , drain out the BG and the crankcase oil , refill with...

Put an indicator on the tip of the shaft without the chuck and move it in and out to see where / if there is play .if the bearings have play if so replace , then recheck.The play could also be from the shaft fit into the bearing . If the shaft has runout when you turn it just mark the high...

when the 3m greencorps wheels I use on my 3" cut off wear down too small I use them on the dremmel . Just have to make a mandrel

This works , ive done this many times as you release the spring the upper mount will hold the shaft enough to tighten the nut properly . Alternately you can use a deep offset box wrench on the nut and hold the shaft with an adjustable. You can also hold the shaft just under the upper mount...

make a deal with the gremans and start selling there tools here on a truck. Ive never seen that here before.

even the screwdrivers from the dollar store wouldn't break like that , had to be a manufacture defect , hardened only not tempered.

this is what we use to make repair crimps on the railroad. https://www.ebay.com/itm/THOMAS-BETTS-TBM6-CRIMPER-WITH-DIES-IN-GREAT-SHAPE/183157934605?hash=item2aa5104a0d:g:NnEAAOSwI2VawVus

+1 , thats how i got mine so cheap.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Precision-Instruments-M3R250Fx-1-2-Dr-Ratcheting-Torque-Wrench-40-250-Lb-Ft/183002906302?epid=9017000423&hash=item2a9bd2bebe:g:aTsAAOSwxOFaUPWR

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Armstrong-Tools-64-085N-1-2-Drive-Micrometer-Torque-Wrench-20-ft-lb-150-ft-lb/332174102727?hash=item4d571e90c7:g:iRwAAOSwB-1Y4~ms

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Torque-Wrench-Armstrong-64-085-1-2-Dr-Micrometer-Style-10-150-ft-lbs/152951374954?epid=1366291046&hash=item239c9cc46a:g:YYEAAOSwJQtasPuR

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wright-Tool-4477-Micrometer-Adjustable-1-2-Torque-Wrench/302689762412?hash=item4679b73c6c:g:7KYAAOSwDNVawCSo

Hope this helps i never needed to but you can aim for the lug nut hole with the saw and the face will be even weaker there , cracking easier. The first pis shows the rust lip that was holding it from sliding off

By cutting the rotor from the outer edge all the way down to the wheel hub (flange with studs ) you reduce the force needed to remove it considerably . You cut into the hat section also (the area around the flange) then you can use what ever method you were using before it was cut and it will...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Proto-Vintage-3-Way-Jaw-Universal-Wheel-Hub-Brake-Drum-Axle-Puller-Set-4001G-USA/323183689537?epid=1222841643&hash=item4b3f3fbf41:g:KhoAAOSwTEpal4LF:sc:USPSPriority!10901!US!-1

we use 1" drive in the railroad industry. CP and IR mostly.