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Ive had this situation many times and devised this plan.I bought a milwaukee portable band saw and cut the rotor between the vents all the way down to the hub in two spots opposite each other then slide hammer the halfs off , takes 15 min tops.The band saw cuts the cast iron like butter.Cars...

I have a 4000 bought it used 10 or so years ago for 850 with the stand and all acc. All it needed was a new light and the boot for the spindle. 4000 is a disc and drum lathe , parts were available then .Mine looks like the one in the pic above

im a ratchet freak ,i have been buying / collecting for 35 years. Never counted but conservative estimate all drive sizes 80+. I even have a 1" drive , that i will never use, just couldn't resist. All usa made except the 2 gearwrench xp120 i bought last week , excellent quality by the way

I have 3 matco boxes MB7535 MB8535 and MB8525 they are all at least 15 years old and are great. The 85's have deeper draws I dont know anything about the cornwell. I would compare the specs before deciding.

some newer car bodies are aluminum so a body shop supply would probably have something to meet your needs.

You can make a vacuum pump with the compressor of any old a/c unit , water cooler , dehumidifier , fridge ect... as long as it still works. just cut it out of the doner and braze on what ever fittings you want. For car a/c evacuation thats all you will need. I never tried it but you could...

a simple fish scale and ruler should work in your application.

turbo sockets work very well on fasteners with even completely rounded heads. I use them on rusted exhaust bolts along with heat .

Welcome search the classifieds here , craigslist ,& e bay. i have snap on ,mac ,cornwell ,sk craftsman and proto. bought them all used except sk. all at very reasonable prices . I have all drive sizes up to 3/4 flex deep semi deep ect. mostly 25-30 years old. I never broke a 1/2 drive impact...

yea your right , the start circuit is not closing , hence no starting and the "push" needed

i wouldn't be afraid of buying an old bearing you can pop the rubber seal out and regrease very easily.

Consider a shop press , its much more versatile. I started off 35 years ago with a 12T. wheel bearings dif bearings rear axle bearings ball joints control arm bushings are no problem. I even made a simple fixture years ago for bead breaking before i had a tire machine used it mostly for...

6PTsocket is spot on , start caps are intermittent duty , and are only designed for this so you will damage it if left in the circuit for more than a few seconds. something is not opening ( centrifical sw or start relay) in the start circuit.

Maybe Stanley will make craftsman industrial rebaged PROTO , that would be nice , and still keep the regular craftsman Chinese junk for Lowes.

check this out http://motorsportsbearings.com/all-about-bearings.html explains the suffixes and a lot of other stuff

IR impacts - best value in my opinion. snap on not even close stay away from the tool trucks!! In heavy industry (railroad where im at) IR and CP are king .

a good rule of thumb for the IR guns is to grease it before the hammer rattles noticeably when you twist it back and forth. In other words hold it at your side from the handle without the hose on it and and twist your wrist back and forth. It will make a loose metallic sound at that time.

Why would you need any other color than orange??

Re: Side of the road tool finds I found a Milwaukee 7 1/4 circular saw on a overpass - decent useable condition , a 19mm 1/2 drive mac swivel impact in new condition on an exit ramp while riding my bike . Also dozens of law and garden power tools , weed whackers lawn mowers snow blowers ect...

yes its for adjusting mixture screws on carbs