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I looked that seal up and it’s only good for 1k Psi, that’s light for your application. Are you turning the release gear the correct way? Is it seated all the way? Did you bench bleed it? Jack in the release position, pump it 6-10 times to flush valves, release in the lift position and give...

I’m gonna go out on a limb and say that Piston seal is Undersized… Ha! Is that what was on it? If you run into anymore issues, Give Hydraulic parts supply in Sawyer Kansas a call.

Blackhawk S-17

Check with Hydraulic Parts Supply in Sawyer KS, You will have to call as they don’t have an online store but you can get an entire seal kit for less than $30 I would call them the authority on Hydraulic jack seal kits, they just don’t Amazon/online sales and operate off of a paper catalog...

Highly unlikely the jack is designed to lift to 90 degrees, I’m trying to wrap my head around the difference between 70 and 90 degrees, It’s not working so I’m gonna quit. When you are attempting to jack it up to 90 degrees is this under load or light? If light, measure the lift height where...

I’ve occasionally ran across release assemblies that have that internal piece stuck, I simply use a pair of adjustable pliers with some brass to protect the threads. If there is enough of that square shank showing you can use that to grip, standard thread as Paul already mentioned. In regards...

If you can manually push the lift arm down it’s a big hole, It’s not seat issue delivering those results unless you have components in the wrong order. 1. Is the release gear completely seated, Add some pictures showing a side shot of the assembly. 2. Correct amount of Oil? 3. Have you bled...

The blue one was more than likely marketed under the Walker brand, Model 883 to be exact.

Here is a diagram for your pump, the valve components in your most recent pictures is the working valve. It looks right but you are still missing a vital components from the relief/overload valve, and without it your pump won’t build pressure as I previously mentioned.

We aren’t talking about a lot of moving parts/adjustments that affect how the gears line up. It should be fairly obvious, but making sure that upper gear and most importantly the bottom stem is seated and secured is a easy check.

When you have the handle in the upright position, It’s common for gear mesh to be off a bit and hard to operate, but the handle should operate both gears. The majority of time you are operating the release the handle will be in the operating range of the actual pump piston. IF you follow that...

It’s hard to tell how far the two gears are off, when you lower the handle can you get the gears to mesh up by simply turning the handle one way or the other? If you follow the upper gear down, you find that the bottom stem protrudes thru the bottom of the handle assemble and is secured with...

If memory serves, the upper gear/stem sits in a hole (bottom) and most are held in place with a cotter key. I’m assuming you haven’t removed the lower release gear and didn’t get it seated deep enough upon reassembly and that’s causing the issue?

1st off, That is not a Hein Werner transmission jack. Secondly, we have a classified section, but it doesn’t play nice with people joining to simply sell there stuff.

If the components wasn’t lost upon disassembly should still be in the hole as everything is accessibly from the back side. The parts missing is either a 1 piece needle with a stem that fits in the spring or a Stem/flat that mates to a ball, with a matching lower seat. It’s a relief valve with a...

1st off there definitely has to be a seal on the pump piston, look again on the outer wall down in the hole hiding inside, Yiu can actually see the wear on the piston. 2nd, What was below that heavy spring? I suspect without scouring some drawings there needs to be some components that aid in...

Every since i started using anaerobic gasket material where metal meets metal on reservoir ends, for the life of me I can’t recall ever having a leak. I’m talking about a hundreds of jobs, What process tools did you use to tighten nut down? Or even remove it? A pipe wrench will work, but it will...

My guess is it’s leaking around the rod on the main ram and running down giving the appearance that it’s coming from the tank nut/reservoir seal. Hydraulic oil is weird, it will leak from point A, wick it’s way to point B and have you chasing your tail.

8oz from empty to full.

Honestly the majority of my customers really don’t care about what shade of blue is used if any. I actually stopped rattle canning them years ago, functionality will trump a paint job that will start chipping immediately once it touches undercarriage all day. Good luck