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Appears to be a Hein Werner GH-1.

It’s hard to say, Both of those jacks utilize cartridge style valve systems that are self contained, versus your traditional Ball/seat valve system. The cartridge systems can be finicky, not only do you need them to transfer oil and Hold pressure with their internal seats, they also need to seal...

I’m really not sure what problems Paul had without going back and looking. On occasion loaded Ucups can can create too much cylinder wall pressure and yiu can get chattering etc. If that’s the case you can simply unload the Ucup by removing the energizer.

Whomever reinstalled the pump piston has it backwards and it’s bottoming out, this is preventing your handle from sitting forward of 90 degrees. That is the correct orientation .

In all honesty, they offer No sealing properties, the split style is easier to install versus the one piece BN. I’d reuse them if they aren’t damaged, just pay attention to the orientation, Once side is flat, the other concave to accept the Oring and keep it from distorting under load, thus they...

Are you talking about the split type backups that mate to the Oring?

The one that has a cover over the adjustment screw should be the overload, the one that can be adjusted from up top is the speed bypass.

I honestly don’t work on them enough to remember what side is what, I can tell by looking at the components of the valve. The tube doesn’t thread into the base, if memory serves it held in place by a washer/orings that is secured by cylinder threading into the block. The tubes that I’ve seen...

It’s not that complicated of a system, there are probably 50+ threads here at GJ showing the inner workings of the single pump/quick lift jacks. If your tube is ruptured, it can be replaced with a donor, I just don’t know how much effort I would personally put into it.

You can save yourself about $50 bucks and purchase it from Hydraulic Parts supply in Sawyer KS. Regardless, I would tear the jack down first to make sure everything is good internally prior to buying a kit. If you have any questions ask to talk to Steve Flora, He can help you with the Gauge also.

I’ve seen vintage Hein Werner presses with similar setups, the bottle jack in your picture is definitely HW. What I don’t know is if HW was actually producing the H-press or it was just a collaboration between the two companies, and they where sharing components and marketing it under there brand.

Soft parts are still available, Any Hard part can be machined for a Price obviously, Rod surfaces would need to be evaluated to see if they can be simply polished or further machining/replacements made. I don’t know anyone who is reproducing replacement covers, so needle in a haystack or right...

As you have already figured out, A two ton capacity jack is more than sufficient to handle your Highlander at all factory lift points with a properly set Overload. The Sj-18 is a very sleek and cool looking piece of lift equipment, Is it a Jack I would purchase to use on a regular basis...

Oil Fill location, I’d be willing to bet the Ucup gave up the ghost, Impossible to diagnose without a tear down.

Did you fill out the request franchise form? Normally in the past customer service would just give me the info over the phone. A quick google search shows Steve Parke for the area, but there may be one closer.

It’s not uncommon for some manufacturers to use piston seals made of Urethane/Bn is similar applications. I won’t speculate on whether it’s up to par in regards to its PSI handling ability without knowing the makeup of the seal in question. I also noticed that they added a quad ring and then...

Yes, in regards to the reservoir mating surfaces, as long as everything is flat and free from imperfections and you have the ability to torque to factory specs. It’s not necessary to use any sealant, i always use it because it’s added protection. It ***** to get a jack back together and then...

The Main Ram piston seal got wrecked upon installation, You should never need a hammer to install it in the bore. The crumbly portion in leather seals is the wax they impregnate into them during the manufacturing process. I’m not sure what material the piston seal is made of, The brown is...

I believe the far right is high side bypass, should be easy to check. If you back it off too much you will lose the quick lift, you want enough seat pressure that it holds the lift arm and doesn’t fall under its own weight.

Sounds like the High side bypass is set too tight and it’s trying lift a load via the small quick lift tube, Do not force it as it will rupture that tube. I’d like to add, there really is no switch to low/power side, it’s a single pump so it’s always working.