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The Wera SAE sets miss some of the important sizes. You can buy two different sets that would cover those, but then you’re right up there in price. I personally don’t like the ball end sets so I chose those without, but they do sell ball end sets as well. They are expensive, but they work...

I like quality tools but have only had cheap Stanley or equivalent hex wrenches in the past. I finally became fed up with the ends twisting and rounding off on stuck fasteners and did some research on them. PB Swiss seemed to consistently have good reviews and quite a following, so I purchased...

Data plate shows fla of 13.4 amps.

The new single phase motor is cheaper than the VFD by about 200 bucks (motor $400-463 vs VFD at $647). Not real interested in decreasing the rated hp, so that eliminates the static converter. Yes, the Scotchman is 51 tons.

I know nothing about static converters, I’ll have to research that. They’ll run off my 230 volt 50 amp welder outlets, and convert to three phase power to run a 5 hp motor?

The other option is Grainger carries a single phase Dayton 5 hp general purpose motor that matches the dimensions, rpm, shaft size, mounts, etc of the existing motor. That would run me $463, so a couple hundred cheaper than the VFD.

I have the Ironworker in my possession. Trying to decide if I should go the VFD route or swap to a single phase motor. I spoke with an engineer at Galco, and they recommended the Yaskawa V1000 series VFD. CIMR-VUBA0018FAA. $647. 1 phase input, and 3 phase output, rated at 5 hp and 17.5...

Thank you for the responses. Once I get it in my possession, and start the conversion process, I may need to take you up on the diagrams.

I have an opportunity to pick up a Scotchman FI-51 ironworker at a decent price. Only issue is it's 230 volt 3-phase, with a 5 hp motor. I only have single phase power in my shop, and am not very knowledgeable about rotary phase converters, VFD, etc. Was thinking about just purchasing a...

Yes, by code it probably shouldn’t be there. I have a forklift to lift and move it wherever I need it, especially during inspection time. Unfortunately it’s the best location along that wall for it. I didn’t want the panel in that location but code limited where I could put it.

GK Machine, a local business that manufactures agricultural equipment as well as fabbing up anything you request. They do great work, for what I think is a reasonable price. Charged me $230 for the materials and labor to form it up.

Building out the inside of my shop now, with the first workbench completed and more to come. This one is 11’ long, 32” deep, and 37” high. 6x6 posts, 2x6 to tie those together, and 2x12 for the top base. I then had 10 gauge (1/8”) steel formed to fit over that, with a 4” backstop formed up as...

Build a strong base that won’t wobble on you. For that length of top, you won’t need more that a post at each corner. I used 6”x6” posts. Solid as can be. 1/8” metal top formed up and placed over the 2x12’s. This one is 11’ long, 32” deep, 37” tall.

Nice video on your upgrades. You did a good job making the press better.

Now I understand why it costs so much to hire out trim work and finishing. Way more work and time than I figured to make up the 15 window casing/trims. I should be under $350 though for all the 1x rough cut fir, finish and supplies. Ended up using the MinWax Oil Modified Water based...

I have a Bosch 4100 table saw with the Bosch folding/rolling stand that I’ve had for many years, built a large shop with it, as well as many other projects over the years. I can’t say enough good about it. I’d buy another in a heartbeat.

Have you considered an Ellis 6000 belt grinder? It’s a 2-1/2”x60” belt though. I love mine, but I haven’t tried making knives with it. Reasonably priced and a solid machine. Different options you can outfit it with.

I had thought the bit was bottomed our already after being inserted which is why I didn’t initially try to drive it in to break it loose. Didn’t realize there was a little room behind it. Sometimes the easiest solution works...

Success. I disassembled the impact to see if I could pull the hammer assembly apart but it appears non-serviceable, and there wasn’t a way to drive it out from the rear like I hoped. Ended up using a punch and finally broke it loose from being bound up. Came out easy after that.

Happened while drilling with a large speedbore into wood. Had tried a magnet but that didn’t budge it. I’ll have to try the superglue and/or drilling...