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I agree 100%. Working under a vehicle is one area where it’s not worth scrimping and saving a few bucks.

The square holes were plasma cut on a 1’ grid. Another Dr. Clyde idea I borrowed. The square holes are the same size as holes on a platen table, so platen clamps can be used. My Stronghand 12.5” utility clamps work great with these holes as well. I originally bought the forklift with the...

Used the forklift and a chain through several of the holes in the plate, and gently set it on top of the frame. Luckily all the holes lined up, so it was secured with 5/8”-11 bolts. I have some expanded metal that at some point I’ll probably place on the lower frame.

Primed with spray can Rustoleum primer, then top coated with spray can Rustoleum Machine grey.

Utilized the 1” plate for a flat surface to build the frame on. Used 3/4” rod for clamp hangers. Drilled and tapped 8 holes in the plate that’ll be used to secure the plate to the frame. No mag drill yet, so I used a couple Fireball jigs to guide my drill straight. Will shim as needed to...

Finally got around to building a welding table. I’m slowly outfitting my shop with metal working tools, and figured it’d be good welding practice to make a few tables. Learned how to weld many years ago on the farm when I was a kid, but haven’t had a shop or welder until now. If it looks...

Haha, 10 months later, not so much open space in there now. Speaking of necessity, when I was installing the metal roofing, I had to figure out a way to get 35’ long 18” wide pieces of standing seam up onto the roof without damage. The crew I hired to help had originally planned on two ladders...

The challenge would be keeping it compact enough without compromising rigidity, in order to have clearance to attach the fasteners.

Lots of good ideas on here. Here’s a jig I built last summer for lifting 28’ long pieces of metal siding that I placed on the ceiling of my shop. I was able to install the ceiling myself by lifting a sheet in place, then moving around with my scissor lift to install the fasteners.

The holes go completely through the plate. I’m thinking the first tap had a stress fracture somewhere, as it broke way too easy. It was an old Greenfield set I purchased used. The second tap I tried worked better and tapped all 8 holes with no issue.

It’s G50 steel, not A36. Someone mentioned above a mag drill. I was/am considering a Hougen HMD905 2-speed. Only issue is no reverse for tapping, have to step up to a HMD2MT to get the 2 speed and reverse. Which is about an additional $500. For drilling true holes, I’m just using a couple...

Yes, 17/32” is the correct size hole for 5/8”-11 NC

Looks like Union Butterfield makes a “relieved” and an “unrelieved” spiral point tap. I googled but cannot find what the difference is between the two.

It is a 4 flute Greenfield tap. I’m using Rapid Tap cutting fluid. I’ll look into the spiral point taps.

I have some 1” plate (Grade 50) that I’m trying to tap with a 5/8”-11NC tap. I’m doing them by hand, using a quality Greenfield tap, with tapping fluid. Going in a little bit, reversing to break up cuttings, forward, repeat. Snapped the tap off about half way in. What’s the trick to tapping...

I have multiple Stihl 2 in 1 sharpeners for different saw chains. They are the cats meow. Quick, accurate, and pays for themselves real quick.

More of a retaining wall block, 2-3” thick. Most likely on edge, not flat.

Nope

The person didn’t survive.

Please use (and know the correct placement of) quality jackstands under any vehicle you decide to work under. Don't be afraid to keep the jack under for additional security, and I would even go so far as to place additional wood cribbing for redundancy. Set the parking brake, and block the...