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If you have a square taper bottom bracket (likely given the vintage) then you'll need a few specialty tools to remove the crank arms and bottom bracket. I'll leave recommendations to others because I have little experience there, all the bikes I've worked on coming from the cartridge BB and...

Yes, many of those cables (especially on high-end groupsets) have a slick polymer coating on them to get smoother shifting. Heating the cable would ruin it.

I've always just used generic grease on my pedal threads, but then again my pedals get removed and reinstalled not too infrequently, at least a couple time a year.

The Tekton 1/4" case is particularly nice in my opinion. Space for full sets of metric and SAE sockets, extensions, spinner handle, universal adapter, and a reasonably large extra storage compartment. Maybe you can convince them to sell you one...

I can confirm that my drill press spindle uses 6205 bearings and the pulley stack uses 6206 bearings. I got them installed and it runs much better than before. There was what looked like at least 50 years of built up polymerized grease and oil in the spindle and quill so it took a lot of work to...

I find it interesting to see when pedals have 6mm hex and when they have 8mm hex. The cheap Shimano commuter pedals I have are 6mm hex, as are a pair of hybrid clip/flat pedals a friend has but my Ultegra and XT pedals all have 8mm hex, far superior in my opinion.

I guess I should clarify that I mean on well maintained, good condition bikes and quality (mostly mid to upper tier Shimano) pedals. I'm regularly swapping pedals around on my mountain bikes and I find it much faster and easier to throw a bit socket on a ratchet than use a pedal wrench. On...

I am so glad that modern pedals have done away with needing pedal wrenches for removal. All the pedals I've used in the last handful of years have had either a 6mm or 8mm hex in the spindle.

Yes

The 3 phase motor conversion was very easy. I just unbolted the old motor, drilled and tapped new mounting holes for my new motor, mounted it, hung the pulley stack using a 5/8-3/4" shaft adapter, drilled and tapped mounting holes for my aluminum VFD bracket, and threw it all together. It took a...

A few months ago I picked up a 1940's Royal 18 dill press in fairly rough shape. I've been using it ever since and love it. I switched the dying original motor to a 1.5 hp three phase motor and 1 hp VFD for immediate speed control (and sold the old motor to a collector!). My current problem is...

A few months ago I picked up a 1940's Royal 18 dill press in fairly rough shape. I've been using it ever since and love it. I switched the dying original motor to a 1.5 hp three phase motor and 1 hp VFD for immediate speed control (and sold the old motor to a collector!). My current problem is...

I can't say that I've noticed a difference in power as an XC 5.0 battery drains on this tool. It's a cordless sander, not a tool that I really lean into so I'm not pushing it to the point of bogging down. That would result in a poor finish on my work. I use the sander mostly for fine woodworking...

The obvious, albeit expensive in some respects, solution that I see is to construct a box completely from stainless but then powder coat it like a normal box. This way the manufacturing can be cheaper because surface finish of the raw stainless doesn't need to be preserved and the finished...

Drill hog does (or at least did for a long time) use American made Huot drill indices so they could slap a made in USA sticker on it, giving the false impression that the drills are also made in USA.

For 5/32 just drill it with a quality cobalt drill, no pilot. If the steel is fully hardened and a new twist drill won't cut it then you can draw the temper back by carefully heating it with a torch until it's a deep straw color (NOT red hot). Wrap the blade with a wet paper towel or submerge it...

You mean M42 cobalt drills, not carbide drills. Carbide drills are much harder, much more brittle, and never a good idea to use in a hand drill. They should be reserved for rigid setups in mills or drill presses but can drill through fully hardened steel like butter. Cobalt (M35 or M42) drills...

I’ve had great results using a table saw breaking down aluminum stock with a 7-1/4” Diablo blade designed for aluminum. I’ve probably processed about a thousand pounds of stock this way but don’t get me wrong, you have to really know what you’re doing because the consequences of screwing up are...

The test was done cutting the shank of the drill. Quality drills will have the shank tempered much softer than the cutting edge so that a chuck can bite into it. If the shank was as hard as the cutting edge then it'd almost certainly be harder than the chuck jaws and the chuck would wear out...

The closest I ever get to this test is cutting 1/8” TIG filler wire with my Knipex 8” diagonal cutters and they handle it perfectly.