It would be used to cut hot iron or steel at a forge. The hot metal would be placed on an anvil, the cutting edge of the hot chisel would be placed on the metal, and the hot chisel would be struck with a sledgehammer.
Lowe’s warranted my broken 40 year old USA made Sears Craftsman 3/8 drive rachet, 36 tooth, with an asian replacement 10 months ago. The asian replacement was also 36 tooth. It’s made like ****, I don’t use it.
Here on Long Island my roofing job cost 11,750 in the summer of 2021. Total tear off of three roofs down to the lath. 1/2 inch plywood put down, don’t remember how many sheets, tarpaper and 11 square of architectural shingles.
Wrenchguy is right. When I worked in a living history museum as a smith we made wrenches as needed. Typically they would be a single open end wrench. On this particular wrench there appears to be grind marks where the parting seam would have been.
That’s a steel hoop setting tool used by a cooper. It is a hammer struck tool with the groove end placed on the metal hoop and then driven into position.
I’ve used the vacuum method for the last 15 years and 337,000 miles worth of driving with my 2001 Toyota Camry. Dino oil changed every 4,000 miles. This method works with ease.
When I was forging a large piece of steel held with tongs that hand was insulated from the radiant heat with a Kevlar glove. My hammer hand never had a glove on it.
The edges are pretty beat on your anvil. Forge or fabricate a 2 inch tall square or rectangular shaped block that will fit in the hardie hole. Grind the edges for what your needs will be.
I wear no gloves while forging. I feel I have more control of the stock and hammer. However, many smiths will wear a glove on their hand holding the stock.