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+1 For DCS INC - You nailed it - This discussion quickly jumped from a question about price installed by professional to a who did it cheaper match. Most professionals follow the same steps on every flooring job so a per sqft price is easily determined. Almost everyone in the installation...

Nate, Your plan is conservative. With some help, You +2 all 3000sqft could be covered in your weekend time frame. Two people apply the coatings while one mixes. The job should move relatively smooth that way. Your onto some good products (polyurea and polyaspartic) so you have done your...

I'm going to be as impartial as possible. Diamond grinding is the most cost/time effective way to remove previous coatings and prepare the concrete substrate. That being said, their are other ways to prep concrete that deliver the desired result (Acid Etch, Shotblasting). If your concrete is new...

I install polyurea floor coatings (basically the same as polyaspartic). They are extremely durable, and supposedly 4x harder than epoxy. From my standpoint as an installer the cure speed sets them apart. In a few hours their dry...Overall I feel like your choosing one of the best products money...

"Epoxy-Coat" products may not. I don't know, I don't install that brand. What I can tell you is clear coat adds protection to epoxy surfaces...I lay 6-8 mills of clear on my average job. This leaves the customer with a layer of protection from scratches, dings, tiremarks, and dirt that can...

Extra is always better... The clear is a must. It adds protection to the epoxy below. Without the clear your floor will look pretty bad in just a few months. Its worth the money. By the way, you can stretch the epoxy. Most epoxy thins with Xylene, you can use this to thin out the mix and make...

Polyurea is in the $100-$125 per gallon range...I buy from Versatile Building Products, they have a site...A gallon roughly covers 200sqft, so 15 gallon should do. I forgot to mention...This is the same stuff that rhino liner is made from, that should give you an idea on strength.

Polyurea sounds like your solution. 4X stronger than epoxy with very few drawbacks... I install epoxy base coats, with polyurea clear for protection. They hold up extremely well. In my defense I haven't installed them anywhere that heavy welding occurs, so i cant vouch for that..

ONE MORE THING...If you used minwax, or another oil based stain its always a good idea to wait a couple days for it to dry. That stuff always stays tacky and requires days to completely dry.

I restore antiques and have a furniture shop so this is my area of expertise. First- (Like the previouse guy) Minwax is awful, Their stains especially. Second- Depending on weather conditions you might have needed more time for your first coat to dry. This sounds like you over applied the...