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why not just use FRT plywood if you're worried about fire? (or a few sprinkler heads off of a pvc domestic water line). ideal would be plywood wall sheathing, assuming you're using wall mounted storage solutions, less ideal would be 2X12 blocking in the walls and drywall sheathing still less...

20 years as a GC licensed in 18 states.

not in the commercial sense.. multi conductor cable that is NOT rated for burial, duh... as I noted above, not a raceway in the commercial sense of the term. (large unobstructed interstitial space readily accessible for the distribution of electrical conductors). by that reference mc flex...

lol, you guys are comical.. You honestly believe that a medium sized home (2,000-3,500 SF) has two 2.5T or 3.0T AC units and two 50A breakers (and the accompanying 6ga wire) in the panel for them...? (yes, i realize that image was from a 4T unit) I dont care what the NEC says, that's not how...

lol, I'm a lot of things, cheap isn't one of them. the guy wants to do the work himself, conduit IS NOT insurance, it's a time saving method, nothing more. I dont care what y'all do, im only letting OP know the most cost effective way to run the service.. conduit is only in place to protect...

I've seen conduits as well, but most of the work I've seen professionally and personally is direct burial.

drawing board mat works well for my needs.

this.

yeah, lots of people resort to jokes when they're wrong, I see where you're coming from..

Every single shopping center/mall/stadium parking lot, in the US has direct burial conductors for it's site lighting... every neighborhood with underground lines uses direct burial for the distribution and service to the homes.. I ASKED if it was millions of miles, I KNOW it's over a hundred...

so, you show a history of making bad decisions, noted. knowingly using the wrong term after being educated on the subject reflects on you, not the teacher.

I agree professionally, and if he were paying someone to install the feeder, I would agree with you. I do LOTS of things personally when I'm working on a project that i do differently when I'm being paid to do the work for someone else it comes down to DIY vs hiring a professional. there are...

did you even read what you posted? it's beyond color.. color is subjective given the material creating the light (metal halide, Incandescent, Fluorescent, HPS, LED, etc), temperature kelvin is not. which was my entire point.

try looking for that information on www.zillow.com

get a pull-out-but-captured fusible disconnect. LIKE THIS

it doesn't have to be a step at the garage door, that transition can be a ramp up, (approximately 1/2" over 2"-3") and it'll keep the water out and enable you to still roll a loaded tool chest in/out..

of course you can.. (I've seen several discussions about the color differences/likes/dislikes/etc). Use the correct terminology and someone can say "i prefer light in the 4500-5600 range" and everyone can agree that the 9800K range of car headlights is unpleasant in a shop environment. Why...

why do people constantly refer to a light's color? it's temperature, the term is TEMPERATURE.. and it's measurement is Kelvin..

who wants to spend enough time sitting on the toilet to justify a $360 seat? i guess unless you've got IBS or something..