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You are looking for a 6-50R. http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?id=8952 This the one I bought for my welder.... http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-50-Amp-2-Pole-Flush-Mount-Grounding-Single-Outlet-Black-R61-05374-000/202077691?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal1_rr-_-203492410-_-202077691-_-N I...

If you want the best/cheapest coffee get an electric kettle as mentioned http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IWOJS9A/?tag=atomicindus08-20 and a french press http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O83LC1Q/?tag=atomicindus08-20 and if you need one, a grinder...

If you are only doing the one outlet and you already have a box, just grab a uni bit and open up one of the knockouts.. This post edited by the NSA

No, you can't do that. Best bet would be to run a subpanel in the garage to run both the tank and the AC. You would need to run a new larger wire for the subpanel though.

I get pretty much all my smaller stuff from McMaster and larger stuff (1" and up) from Heatshrink.com. Very happy with both.. And Nehog is correct, dual wall heatshrink should never be folded or rolled if at all possible, especially if you use it outdoors like I do. This post edited by...

I don't smell anything, hopefully I'm not just used to it ;) My mom's house is identical actually, I never really thought about it that much.. This post edited by the NSA

This is exactly how it is in my house as well... I'd love to have mine moved outside to get the wall space, but it probably isn't really worth it...

I have one of the certiflat tables and I really like it. The first 6 or 8 months I had my tig welder I didn't have space or time to setup a real table so I just used a small piece of 1/2" cement board on my laminate covered bench and it worked just fine. Obviously this will really only work...

I don't see anything in 110.14b or 250.148a about UL 467? 250.148 just refers to EGC connections to a box... (A) specifically says: connections and splices shall be made in accordance with 110.14b, except that insulation shall not be required. 110.14 is for splicing conductors of...

Well with such a short run, it won't save much but you only need 10/2 as there is no neutral in a 240v welder circuit. What is your 50' extension cord made from?

Thanks! That's pretty much what I would like to do... My wife loves to leave lights on all over the house and it drives me nuts....

That sounds very useful, thanks. Makes sense as far as the sensor channel goes! Anything chance you could share what the system is that you are using?

So is that a website or a program on your pc? And what are you using for sensors/equipment? Last question, do you really have 19 sump pumps? :evil:

"properly finished" is a very relative term... It really depends on what you are looking for. Personally I wouldn't bother parging the concrete from what I can see in the photo. As far as the ceiling, if there is an untaped seam there it may be a good idea to tape it up just to seal things...

That more or less makes sense, although you can certainly get a machine screw that uses a nut, like a 10-32 philips for example.. To secure the top I would also just do a few dabs of silicon... Shouldn't go anywhere.

As far as the leak in the ceiling showing up, I don't think open cell will really be much better. Where it actually might end up dripping inside will probably be no where near the actual leak, if it shows up at all. It not like with open cell the water will just leak straight down...

This is correct; this is a big part of why folks use it (although to qualify as a vapor barrier, I think it needs to be a minimum of 2")

Well, so far so good... I ordered the part on Sunday and it just showed up today, not bad for free shipping. It is also the exact OEM part I am replacing, so that is good.. I'll update when it is actually working later.

I didn't think to check eBay, but it looks to be a little more expensive anyway.. I decided to go with them since they take PayPal, so I'm not particularly worried.. ...

I've used the Pentek big blue for a while, works well.. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014C3IOS/?tag=atomicindus08-20