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Funny, I was just thinking about this. I love how easy it is to get my woodworking planes and chisels extremely sharp using the Veritas MK2 jig. In comparison, it feels like sharpening kitchen knives is a crapshoot. $400-ish though. Ouch. May have to put in a request to Santa.

Another thing that can cause problems when you get to those types of tolerances is even very minor flexing or bowing of the fence. Particularly if you had to go through the procedure that many times it's something I'd look at very carefully.

Yes, very much this. I will go very far out of my way to avoid additional gas powered tools for exactly this reason. I think I have 8 gas powered devices of one type or another (cars/motorcycles included), and I'm sure that's well towards the low end of GJ members. The amount of time that goes...

Completely agree. Thanks for posting. It's not enough to just not be racist, we all need to be better at actively working to make change happen.

Very helpful, thanks. Just have to track down a No. 1 wrench.

Gregor, any chance you have measurements for the locking bolt and wrench for that vise? I also have a 973, although mine locks really nicely, but it's missing the original wrench which I'd like to get. The wrench that seems to fit the best is 9/16" but most of the replacements I've seen are...

This article (sorry it's behind a paywall), quotes Joe Lstiburek of Building Science Corp: https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/using-a-dimple-mat-to-keep-a-basement-wall-dry The article doesn't have a link to the original reference, but there might be something on the Building Science...

Below grade I've seen estimates of a 5% reduction in performance with the dimple mat between insulation and concrete. There isn't a lot of airflow in the drainage channels so it's not impacted very much. Location of the dimple mat seems to be mostly about ease of fastening and how the assembly...

Just glancing through some of the stuff that's out there now is bringing back my inner 12 year old.

Had to look that up. Seems slightly terrifying! "When driving this model up to a 1/4 mile of traffic free, uninterrupted driving area could be required". I'd say so. Seems like you'd want speed sensitive steering input moving that fast.

Think I only did a couple of races but I used to do some of the open track sessions. From what I can recall: -Kyosho Raider -Losi JRX Pro, I think it was? -Losi *** -Some kind of Ferrari F641, wasn't great. Around the time that Tamiya started making a pretty nice F1 style chassis, but this was...

As someone who was really into RC cars through the 80s and 90s I'm looking forward to that.

http://www.insulationdepot.com/ Haven't used myself, but read good things.

Present day, I'd suggest Lie Nielsen for woodworking hand tools.

Thanks. Now I remember why I didn't pursue that option...the panels in my garage doors are 50" wide so I can only get 2 out of a 4x8 sheet. Have to see if I can get a 9 or 10ft panel somewhere.

:wtf: Is it worth considering using a crimped ferrule when I install the replacement? I know it's completely possible to get a solid connection without, but given the past issue I'd rather reduce the risk as much as possible.

Thank you. What didn't even occur to me at the time and I may now be kicking myself for is the use of stranded wire between the junction box and the heater...used a "Liquid Tight" extension because it allowed some flexibility, but is it inherently problematic to use that with a screw terminal?

I'd assume the latter is more likely although it seemed pretty tight when I removed it. Definitely will approach replacement with an abundance of caution...

I've had a ComfortZone CZ220 heater in my 2 car garage for the past 3 years. It's always worked well with no issues until this evening. I was letting the garage warm up for about 20 minutes and came out to a strong smell of electrical components burning. After letting it cool down, I took a look...

That's kind of what I've been envisioning doing. Anyone have a source for similar material other than Menards?