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The climbing shoe company 5.10 used to sell resole kits with their "Stealth" rubber. Unfortunately they no longer do this, but it looks like you can get sheets of Vibram rubber as an alternative: https://www.charlesbirch.com/c-206.aspx?searchEngineName=vibram-sheeting Another option, depending...

Not too concerned with high precision, but I can just barely get the knurled wheel to turn. I made a replacement from threaded rod, but I'd like to be able to use the original.

Wondering if anyone has experience with these? I think it's a really interesting (patented!) design, but mine has never worked at all smoothly. I've tried lubricating as well as cleaning up the teeth with a file but it hasn't seemed to help. http://www.datamp.org/patents/displayPatent.php?id=10538

Definitely understand that. The "a frame" design probably does save some floor space and seems like it would be pretty easy to build.

Very interested to see what you have in mind here. I'm thinking along the same lines, likely doing something similar to the old Harbor Freight design:

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll give that a go and post some pictures. If I'm going to strip it down and rebuild it, would it make sense to remove the jaws if I'm just going to refurb them with a file or just leave in place and mask around them when repainting?

Asking a question though I suspect I know the answer... Are there any current options for Chas Parker jaws? Recently picked up a 973 and the jaw faces are of course pretty flat. I'd seen the information on wiltonviseparts, but it doesn't appear as though that gentleman is still doing custom...

Those looks sweet.

Nice job, very clean. So looking into this a bit more it looks like I ordered the wrong crimp tool. I didn't realize that there is a difference between insulated and heat shrink terminals. Looking at some other crimp tools that offer both options and there's a clear difference in the die...

Thanks, seems like a lot of people suggesting that the combination is no good. I was trying to order parts that would be a no brainer to get right...oops. What type of connectors would those work with? I do have a set of manual crimping pliers like the ones that you linked to so I guess I can...

Yeah I have them wound in all the way to the "max crimp" setting. I have another set of terminals from a different company showing up tomorrow so I'll see if those do any better. I can live with buying a better tool, just trying to determine if that's actually the issue before spending more money.

I've been adding an auxiliary fuse panel to my wife's truck and picked up ratcheting crimper, insulated crimps, and 16AWG wire to run into the interior. Links: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069TRKJ0/ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5W3A2O/...

Cool, any pictures of that setup? I'd like to try but I'm not sure how the hose and controller routing would work out. I like your thread by the way, nice work on the house/car/garage.

Anyone ever consider mounting the pump unit overhead in a semi-permanent arrangement? I've been contemplating this setup with the hydraulic lines in some kind of pull down arrangement, so that I would only have to set up the ramps, connect the lines, and be ready to go.

Man, you guys are on the ball. Thanks for all of the information!

Apologies if this is an inappropriate place for this but I'm looking to potentially buy the vise shown in these pictures. Listed as 5" and opens 5-1/2" but otherwise don't have any information. Probably a larger vise than what I really need but it's local and seems like a nice addition to my...

Anything that I can use for their aluminum bar clamps?

If that's addressed to me I'd say that I'm trying to do "good" and my application is a workshop. I have a 22x22ft garage workshop similar to the original poster but I have somewhat lower ceilings so I was trying to determine whether or not the recommended layout would change substantially based...

Thanks for the response. I was comparing against the original question in this thread which stated 12ft ceilings vs 9ft. I'll check out those links as well.

Not to use up too much of your goodwill, but would your recommendation change for the same layout, same surfaces (painted drywall), but with roughly 9' ceilings?