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The Racor, and fleximounts ceiling storage lifts seem to be discontinued: but they seem like a great solution for getting strollers/toys up and out of the way without needed a ladder to get them back. Anybody know or an alternative, or DIY solution that’s similar, without breaking the bank?

Interesting about the quick jump... I just did the math, and if I'm correct: 86.5" max lift / 50 seconds to max lift = 1.7" per second... Not sure how reactive the buttons are, but certainly seems like your 2" per push could be accurate? Just when I got finished deciding: hell, go big or go...

I’m not sure. Some people are saying 10 seconds… some say 30. I can’t find concrete evidence showing one vs the other: but I watch an advantage lift with 110v lifting a mustang and it took 2minutes, which just seemed excessive… I think it’s the main reason I’m hanging on this last decision.

It’s a small 2 car garage with an even smaller shop added to the rear: the lift can really only go from one bay to another… and front to back a few feet. I don’t know why I’m so hung up on 110 vs 220… I just have it in my head that 220 will be faster. Heck, I’m trying to even justify the 110 as...

I think they do ship with completely different motors: I’ll have to see if I can get Bendpak to tell me what they actually ship with If it was a 30 amp, I’d likely be looking at 10/2, 10/3

Not positive: I’d assume 20amp? I see posts of people getting away with 15amp circuits though.

Bendpak specifies a 30amp breaker. I’m sure it only pulls 1/3 that…

45 seconds wouldn’t be bad: but some are saying at least double that number? I have a 27 gallon craftsman. Mostly just used for blowing dust around these days, but I have a drop right near where I plan to park the lift.

It’s the 30amps that make me think you’ll need at least 10-gauge

Right: I kind of wish my subpanel was bigger than 60amp, but it is what it is… My thought here is I can add a 14-50 outlet to the panel, and then run a large RV/Generator extension cord over to the lift for 220. In this scenario, really my only cost would be the box/outlet for the 14-50 (I...

I’ve considered ordering the quick jacks in addition to the 4 post (seeing as theyre on sale at Costco) But storage would be an issue…

Ah… but I now understand what you’re trying to say… you want it to be portable. No harm in prefabbing small portions with deck screws and breaking it back down ikea style, but I’d final assemble with nails.

Screws don’t have the shear strength that nails do, so I’m not sure it’s a great idea long term… You could probably get away with structural screws, but they will cost even more, and add lots of time to the project. I’d stick to nails…. If you don’t have a compressor, it’s a good excuse to...

So yea, This would be an occasional use lift. 110 would certainly be more convenient, but being a “dream purchase” I didn’t want to leave anything on the table. A dedicated outlet could be installed for 220… but I’ve also considered running an extension cord from the rear of my garage to...

Would it be worth the extra cost/hassle of installing a 240v outlet for a Bendpak 4 post lift? Obviously lift time is faster… but how much faster is it over a 110? Romex isn’t cheap right now (I have plenty of 12/2 I could use for the 110v setup), and I’d be losing extra space in my sub panel...

Thank you: Do you know for sure if this is compatible with the HD-9 lifts from Bendpak?

Interesting…. That’ll save quite a penny while having multiple uses…. I’m going to have to look into this! My only concern is would be the smaller wheels, but I suppose I could always make my own dolly with larger wheels too….

Good Point… so do you have two bridge jacks?

I’m actually leaning against the drip trays: $90 just seems like a cash grab. Might just use some of the scrap plywood laying around for that purpose… Jack Tray is on the list; but I’m still on the fence about ordering a bridge jack, or trying to live without it. Airbag jacks seem like...

Can you tell me about the lighting setup?!