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Pour a 4 gallon kit of our DecoFX 1115 clear epoxy onto your floor and call it a day! We've had quite a few customers do this to their gardening and car trailers with great success. They love it!

It can be poured and, yes, would recommend backer rod set 3/4" deep. Email me directly at [email protected] if interested as the tintable IntegraFlex is not on our website.

We do offer IntegraFlex 1921 that can be tinted black. It is not self-leveling though. For sawcuts we suggest taping off both sides of the crack, slightly overfill, then after 5hrs or so, using a fresh box cutter blade, slice off the "crown" so the IntegraFlex will be flush with surrounding surface.

Diamond grind the floor. The paint needs to come up and any underlying concrete issues (if any) need to be exposed, understood, and corrected if you're planning on coating the floor.

Orbit over Silver Gray is the most popular color selection we sell.

Looks like Silver Gray but the chips appear to have blue in it which would indicate color blend "Orbit" to me... Check it out here: Partial Flake System

Nice work Roger!!!

Yes that would be the correct order of operations but I would suggest a coat of Wolverine Coatings' EnduraShield 2254 hybrid-urethane with/without SpheriTex traction additive... ;-)

With 100% flake distribution U.V. exposure is not a concern for epoxy coatings.

The TrowelEase is a 3 component product Part A Resin, Part B Hardener, Part C aggregate. Once you've identified the areas to be filled/repaired, prepped and cleaned them and are ready to apply the TrowelEase, mix up a small batch comprised of just the Parts A&B and "prime" the areas to be...

Depending on climate conditions plan on anywhere between 12-16hrs.

Slab temp of 50F is the minimum but I'd suggest waiting until it warms up a bit more than that.

If it were my floor..... I'd locate/isolate any suspect concrete just as ConCretin suggested. If it appears to be isolated to a few areas tapping the area with a ball peen hammer will typically reveal any compromised concrete. Chip it all out then fill with our TrowelEase 1162PK, grind the...

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Whenever it comes to basements I'm always going to start with, "have you checked for Moisture Vapor Transmission [MVT]?" That being said, a 1/2" drop inside a 6" diameter circle should be filled with an epoxy mortar such as our TrowelEase 1162. You would want to make sure that the infill area...

You could get away with a single broadcast flakes and then sand. Sanding is easy but you'll have to rent the floor maintainer and buys some discs, all-in about $125.00. The "risk" with doing this with single broadcast is the potential to sand through the flakes and strike the underlying body...

Your reasoning for a solid color flake job makes a whole lot of sense from a durability perspective. From an impact resistant perspective about the only thing that would beat a double broadcast, full flake distribution over a high build epoxy would be a double broadcast quartz floor. Both of...

To begin with, your new slab will need to cure for a minimum of 29 days before any coating. We offer a number of high build 100% solids industrial epoxy systems to the DIY community, you can check them out here: AlphaGarage Kits For some recent customer experiences check these out, you can...

Shea, good call on the 100% solids for basement applications... For full flake floors we recommend a minimum receiver coating thickness of 12mils. That's 400sf per 3 gal of 100% solids and right around 45lbs of flakes. P.S. as long as we're on the basement application topic, do your homework...

When doing a "full flake floor" (broadcasting chips to rejection) Yes, wait until the coat is cured enough to walk on, for our 100% solids products that is typically between 14-16hrs, then aggressively scrape the flakes to make sure that you remove all excess and that you knock down any flakes...