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NICE work Roger! Perfect flake distribution and tight edges.... (y):cool:(y)

Wow! The Gas Station Workshop was an impressive build-out, can't wait to see what you do with this!! (y) (y)

"Luposlipaphobia" is a real thing and I don't intend to make light of it but.... the LiquaTile 1143 (CFLC) finish is very deceptive, very glossy but still maintains twice the ADA recommended minimum slip resistance. It is very similar to porcelain tile. For very slippery areas i.e. in front of...

Here's to great TeamWork :beer: https://allgaragefloors.com/ (y)(y)

Go to: 3-Layer partial flake zero out the LiquaTile component for a BondTite 1101 - primer + EnduraShield 2254 urethane clear coat only system. If you're feeling creative for another $30.00 add a tint to the EnduraShield for an opaque colored finish...

It is but you may not get the effect you're looking for. The look will mimic a metallic paint. If you're looking for lots of variegated swirls and streaks you'll need a much thicker coating to allow the mica to swim in. We start at 30mil coating thickness for our mica based finishes.

Congrats on your new (to you) home! Regarding your questions: Current Surface and Prep: Yes to grinding/removing existing paint. No, to wash/dry/etch. Instead, because it's a basement environment and you don't have any 1st hand experience with what's going on during winter (wet) season, I would...

For a project such as your's we would recommend repairing/patching/filling with Wolverine Coatings' TrowelEase 1162PK followed by one of our ceramic based 100% epoxy kits. Feel free to contact me directly for additional details and instruction. Here's a recent post regarding install of our CFLC...

"I planned on broadcasting to full rejection on coat number two, followed by a UV resistant top coat, which I'm not sure that I need given that my garage has no windows." Flake floors need clear topcoats.

Good call on the 100% solids epoxy. Floor looks great!!

Well, if you'd like to change that record gimme a call.... Love Auburn CA BTW.... ;)

Without commenting on the safety, code compliance, insurance risks I'll offer up this, we've had quite a few customers apply our BondTite primer and/or BondTite 1115 clear epoxy under our EnduraShield 2254 hybrid-urethane with traction additive to wood decked enclosed landscape/gardening and toy...

Have them thoroughly grind off every square inch, shake their hands when they leave then set aside a weekend to DIY apply this: Partial Flake Floor or this: Chip Floor Then move on with your life and ENJOY your freshly renovated home!

That turned out really well, thanks for sharing! :beer:

All of our epoxies, including our primers, are 100% solids, zero VOCs. Our EnduraShield hybrid urethane does contain 3-5% solvent but this fully dissipates within 36hrs. For a 100% solids coating system consider our 2 layer (no urethane top coat) full ceramic CFLC System once you've ground the slab.

We do recommend degreasing with a quality eco-friendly degreaser for anything but new bare concrete floors but shy away from high pressure washing. Follow the degreaser manufacturer's instructions and rinse with city pressure water. It's better to flood and squeegee (or vacuum out for basement...

Yep, keep your nail set & hammer handy....

I have the same question as Shea and, yes, I did read the post. The OP stated, "what i guess to be big box floor paint." which is somewhat of a mixed metaphor in that typically when referring to "big box _______ " it is referencing the budget epoxy coating kits not masonry paint. If it is paint...

You know what is so interesting? I can't say definitively (because I haven't done a thorough accounting ) but I would be willing to bet that at least 90% of the negative reports concerning "epoxy" floors relate to "professionally" installed/applied "epoxy" floors. I draw attention to "epoxy"...

As others have rightfully pointed out your quote is seriously lacking in detail. At the low end 1,600sf2 a professionally applied coating should be closer to $10K especially given that there are three coats of paint (as opposed to epoxy) which will need to be completely removed. I also need to...