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If you just apply an epoxy coat it will amber again. The tinted urethane coat is the way to go... If you want to fully restore the floor finish, degloss existing coat, apply coat of LiquaTile 1184- Bone White, apply Bone White tinted EnduraShield 2254. DM me for specifics.

You'll be fine with 120grit. You're just looking to degloss the floor not complete removal of the topcoat. Lightly sand, wipe down with denatured alcohol and recoat.

Don't get me wrong, it looks great!

Very well done! My only question is, did you consider doing a continuous strip connecting all three bays or would the garage door rails have complicated everything too much?

Well, my advice is coming from a perspective of what would it take to make it right i.e. if I were a professional applicator, what would I deem as acceptable to a paying client. That would involve, grind the entire floor down to the color coat (which would likely involve removal of the majority...

Carbon Dioxide

Open flame heat sources are a no-go for most (if not all) polymer coatings as they generate large amounts of co2. Excess co2 exposure during the curing phase can lead to lower cross link density i.e. soft epoxy, delay in cure time, and amine blush. co2 can also absorb into bare concrete and will...

Oh, misread the last part. Still, anything that is lifting will need to be removed prior to recoating. If the joint filler is lifting, it will have to be removed, joint should be ground to bare concrete and refilled. At that point your looking at applying a fresh body coat, flakes and clear so...

If the epoxy is disbonding from the concrete the only remedy is to grind it off and redo. Curious, what prep was done prior to original application?

For ease of application and economical check out Wolverine's AcryliSeal 3501, 5 gal would be perfect for 330sf.

Go straight to the anhydrous calcium chloride tests and follow the directions carefully. Moisture meters are basically useless for this application.

It should, it will not be a solid white finish but will be translucent. Dark spots will show through but it should be enough to restore the overall white finish and will not yellow going forward. DM me if you want to order, we don't offer the ColorMeld individually, yet..., on our website.

No need to remove existing urethane, just thoroughly de-gloss (via sanding with a 175rpm floor maintainer/ 120grit sanding screen) the existing clear coat and then apply two coats of our EnduraShield 2254 hybrid-urethane. The first coat tinted with one of our white ColorMeld tints, the second...

When using a flexible joint filler, such as our IntegraFlex 1921, consider these guidelines. For saw cut joints or cracks up to ~3/8" we recommend: Seamless Expansion Joint Detail (backer rod depth should be 1.5xW) For wider joints/cracks we recommend: Expansion Joint Detail (backer rod depth...

BTW, for a really trick look I would coat in white, as I previously described, then finish it by taping-off and filling the joints with black SikaFlex 221... !

Well, to begin with, hand grinding 500sf is an immediate "red flag" but so is $5.00psf all-in. You definitely didn't get a good install but you didn't really pay for one either....

For a "Hangar White Epoxy" we would spec the same system as "1800sqft Wolverine CFLC install on 35yr old concrete" made up of a 10mil BondTite 1101 primer with a 20mil LiquaTile 1143 chemically fused ceramic body coat in pure white but would add a pure white tinted hybrid-urethane top coat...

Another Wolverine job well done Roger55 ! Have you considered taping off and filling the saw cut joints? Using something like Sikaflex 221 in black would finish that job off nicely...

Our AcryliSeal 3501 is a fantastic penetrating/topical sealer. Excellent over bare or stained concrete! Comes in 5gal container for $259.00 + shipping ( ~$52.00per gal).

Master class on how it's done, that's easily a $15k floor had you had it done professionally! Thank you for taking the time to share, I did notice one glaring problem though.... No lift??