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Holy ****... Menards has a website with products!?

We raised a large fence gate by clamping 90-degree elbow brackets low on the posts and used adjustable basement "pillars" to raise each slowly. Might be worth a thought. Just make sure you keep something under the suspended legs while you are working on it... lumber, cinder blocks.... something.

You think your Quarter Pounder is still a quarter-pound after they melt the ice off and squeeze the fat out of it?

Both appliances should have a clearly defined distance that they need to keep. Check the manuals. Foil lined foam isn't necessarily made for fire or heat resistance, but it would make me feel better than raw foam if I had to encroach on the minimum safe distance.

I'm with you now. In my opinion it would be easier to stop a handle with a huge amount of gear reduction from whipping the bed of the truck off with some sort of mechanical stop. The hope was to use some mechanical advantage to overcome the weight and leverage of an off-kilter arm, but I guess...

Was a pretty basic thought. Common discarded auto parts that transfer rotation from one axis to another. Or did you mean how could it be adapted to be used? Or... did you think I was asking about the drivetrain in the truck?

Guess I could have started with giving you the correct thing to google... Try cymbAl. Sorry. Height and sturdiness are dictated by the number of extensions. Price is going to be your limit before height. Good luck.

One of the best "random" tools in my garage is a cymbol stand from my drumming days. Sturdy. Lightweight, but hefty enough to be stable. Very adjustable and quick. Easy to mount casters to the 3 legs, or mount it on a wooden dolly... Check you local goodwill.

Make "flags" out of coat hangers for your wires. Mark what they are and put one at each end of a run or at a turn or junction.

Ring and pinion?

I have had trouble with the rubber seals on the plastic timing belt cover swelling and keeping the cover from re-seating properly when it's all going back together. I ended up trimming and reworking the original, but if I had the easy ability to buy one just in case and have the option to...

Crawl under it and take a look... There's only one way it can go back together. If you are still uncomfortable, take a picture. If you are still uncomfortable, don't risk your buddies safety for a little cash. If you are a decently well-rounded shadetree mechanic, you should feel comfortable...

If you have a decent library near SE of Disorder, check them for a Haynes or Chiltons. You have a good jack and good set of jackstands? Ramps for the rears? Metric wrenches? Warm flat floor? Pickle fork or puller? Edit: You can get a special tie rod tool from autozone or advanced on the rent...

I do almost the same with great results... Generic oxyshit from the dollar store and apply dry (if it's a puddle) and kick it in. Otherwise, I do just as rd recommended.

A rosette through the middle would do it... as long as it's a good weld. Remeber though, most nuts have a slight taper to the flats near the end where your wrench can't reach anyway, so you can probably do some work around the outside. If you have the room vertically, you could go for a piece...

Weld a smaller nut to the bottom. Edit: Do you carry it to change the oil on the road, or just in case? How about safety wiring the plug...

Is there a shut off valve in line before the heater that may be off?

Type "HOLIDAY20" into your cart at autozone.com for $20 off $100 or more. Plus free shipping (or pickup). Today only. May be time for a new optima for the daily driver...

Just a shot in the dark... But I wonder if a mack-daddy stud finder would be able to tell the difference.

Well, the CC deal would be great, but it seems too good to be true... time will tell. Are they worth $40 knowing they aren't being compared to pallet rack?