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Your building codes will dictate the required insulation. You should find out what standards you need to meet so you'll know what options are available to you/what design requirements you must work within. The fact that it rarely drops below freezing does not necessarily have any bearing on the...

Tie wire for the win. Haven't seen many perfectly straight blue cracks, but there's always a first time.

It won't take anywhere near a month to develop a powerful hate for it and self-loathing for yourself. There are many better ways to punish yourself if you need to suffer.

Do my eyes deceive me or do I spy a huge crack running through that right stub o' wall?

My experience with concrete is that it does not like to be installed in layers period and the thinner the layer the less satisfactory and less durable the result. If that was my problem to solve and I didn't want/wasn't able/wasn't willing to replace the entire floor I would probably remove...

The noise is coming from the intake.

Is there a thin(ner) layer of newer concrete installed over an older slab there?

There is no reason for a staggered stud wall in this application. As noted, that is only applicable for a partition where you want to keep the sound from each room bleeding through to the other. Do make sure the new wall does not touch the existing brick wall and do make sure to thoroughly seal...

Steel studs are significantly better at sound attenuation than wood. If you have room for 2x6s you have room for resilient channel, which will help that much more. Dense pack cellulose is more effective at blocking sound than rock wool. Double drywall layer. Don't forget the green glue in...

You'll spend more time exchanging and checking hoping to find one that is correct than it would take to fix the one you already have. Grind what's high flat and build up what's low with grout.

To meet my minimum requirements it would need to be possible to park 2 cars side by side and open all of the doors (not necessarily at the same time) all the way without hitting anything. The 21' width would be an automatic fail for me, but this is your garage. Might help to mock something up...

Not sure why you're worried about it. Carpenter doesn't get paid until the inspector signs off.

You know how many cubic feet of air you have. How quickly do you want to clear the air? Some simple math will get you to the answer you seek.

The shelving you bought is rated for 2,000 lbs per vertical, a max of 250 lbs per bracket (w/o attached diagonal brace), and 400 lbs per screw in the hang track (assuming appropriate screws are used). You said your install spans 4 studs, so you should be good for 3,200 lbs of evenly distributed...

Based on the HP and motor speed I would guess around 15 as it sits. Need the compressor model number/displacement and pulley diameters to answer definitively.

What are the dimensions of this shed? One or more sheets of Formica would provide a nearly indestructible wear surface.

12' would be better for a lift if you can do it. Have you considered a flush mounted scissor lift?

I suppose it depends on your local population, but my mice jumped out of the bucket trap and the glue traps weren't sticky enough to hold them. I found a cat the most effective deterrent.

Cost to find out what the shop says is the time to locate a phone number plus $0.00.

If you do it carefully, you can dig out the entire basement. Underpin the exterior wall in sections until you have a full foundation underneath and you're done. General rules of thumb are heavily dependent on soil type. In a heavy, dense soil, a one to one ratio is generally fine i.e. stay 1'...