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Same here! same problem, same source, mulching the same azaleas. I finally found a way to kill it and not the azaleas. Cut the vine about a foot long or so. Dip the cut end into a little bit of undiluted generic Roundup. Done. And no danger of overspray on your desirables.

Waitin' for the real answer, but IME the old BX encountered in vintage buildings was always steel while AC is aluminum. but that may be brand dependent. That and the bonding strip.

The info is in the stamp or tag on every board. KDAT deck boards stay nicer looking for far longer.

I suspect that crack is a contributor, but minor, to the issue. More likely that the major contributor is simple wicking from the bottom up on the outside. Removing the water from the soil that touches the block with a drain system would be my first job. Not an expert, just have some...

The need is a cart that isn't restricted to level hard surfaces, right? So in my weak mind I see Light weight, wide in relation to length, low center of gravity and bigger wheels than 'normal' as the characteristics Buy a cheap cart, I got mine from a school cafeteria auction, they were used...

I have found that purchased lumber that was treated after drying has a much more deeper, more complete penetration, Of course it's all SYP in OK, but the difference is obvious, especially on 4" stuff. Maybe instead of the incisor, a dryer kiln?

I owned a commercial building in our little city for about 20 years. The alley side windows were all of this type. The building was constructed in 1920, (or '16, depending on which records you used). Local fire marshal told me this was fire code from way back when. Interesting thing is...

Yes, you need to get that load on a dedicated kitchen circuit. IOW, get the living room off the kitchen circuit. You could try a new 15A breaker, as it is possible that yours maybe tripping early due to continuous use right at the limit. But even if that works, it still needs to be fixed...

Heat strips ? Are there any installed? Haven't seen that info anywhere in the conversation. He stated that an 80K BTU furnace was removed. If it was an 80% unit, there was about 65K BTU available to heat the home. A 3T heat pump of any kind is unable to deliver that much heat, especially...

I have a 13" Delta, older model looks like the common 15"cast iron models. I can't imagine using it with less than a 4" line, Just way too much output for a 2 1/2, especially with deeper cuts.

Mostly depends on the material of the styles. Lumber, ply, particle board or? If usable some patches can be applied after the damaged material is removed. There may bases for those hinges that are intended for face frames, depends on the hinge brand. Worst case add a block on the back of...

Can't answer your question. But, I'd buy it! May never know or care who used it or for what, but I'd just have to own it.

Yep. Shorter screws referred to as lap screws in OK.

Both, tubing is most important. Sheet can fail without the whole thing collapsing, not so with tubing.

Compare the dimensions and gauge of the materials. Bigger and Heavier is better. And galvanized tubing, not painted. Brand doesn't matter as that is just the assembler. JMHO I have two of these 'carport' buildings. One roof only 20x20 and another RV sized, 42x20 with 13' sidewalls...

I only have one observation and one piece of advice. Advice first: Stop talking. If it hasn't been written it was never said. First piece of advice I received upon my first assignment to a management level job. Ask in writing, preferably paper, not email. Answer in the same method...

Ideally, one would fill the block face that meets the jamb so it is flush and smooth. Next step, use toggle bolt to reattach in the existing holes. Now the clamping force doesn't try to pull the blocks web into the void. Next shim both inside and outside faces of the jamb flush with the block...

I think you'll find it is a straight thread 20TPI and probably 3/8, maybe 1/2", don't remember. Should screw onto a male compression coupling. So compression on one end and pipe on the other fitting should get to the point where you can hook up to most anything. But that end of the...

Using the calculator, 3a load 500 feet away shows a 12ga wire is under 5%. 14ga is slightly over 6%. Given the facts, intermittent load if short duration, motor is actually DC rather than AC, the input is speced at 110 not 120, and my cheapness. I'd run 14ga UF. At 6% drop from 120 is...

No AC, but I've never seen a commercial chicken facility without multiple big fans to keep the inside temp the same as outside. No air movement, sun shining on metal roof, hundreds (or thousands) of bodies burning calories will heat up a chicken house in minutes. Hot chickens die.