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That red number looks to be the exact one needed to provide the spacing? Or at least 1/8" which should be fine for a 16" wide panel as the 3/16 is for a 48" I think.

I used plastic guttering for my covers. Cut Short sections top and bottom fastened to the brick facing out, and one long piece fastened to them with screws. Open sides facing each other. Looks much like the factory cover sets but without the protrusion at the top to house the horizontal to...

I'll second that, along with some Nyloc or similar magic. Both came with the last one I bought from Parker-Davis, Pioneer brand. They are what appears to be a hardened copper with tiny concentric rings stamped into them to seal against the flare and fitting. So far, so good. And I don't...

I'll add to that. The brand I have used has a setting to change the default to a max cooling rate, temporarily. It runs the condensor and evaporator fans at max. Makes a huge difference. Maybe check your brand's web site or manual if you have it. But more insulation and air sealing is...

And the length of the 'wire' has a lot to do with the rating. Find a general purpose calculator, not code compliant but engineering, online and play with loads, wire size and circuit length. Lots of variance from 'normal' sizing when distance is reduced to a few inches.

I just installed a mini split, my 3rd. This time the seller included some ribbed, conical flare sealing washers as well as some nylog clone material. Looks like a belt and suspenders deal and makes flare quality less critical. I haven't had past issues with a less than ideal tool, but this...

Most recent, working on a mower deck. Outside. Battery impact, extension, really tight/rusty bolt/nut. Slipped off the nut under full power, socket exited the extension which exited the impact. in the middle of three acres of grass. Never found the socket. Not a 10mm but close, 3/8".

I don't know if this is the best answer or not, but it does agree with what I've done in the past and will do again. A stiff paint scrapper works well to lift the shingle without major damage. Just aim well and tap gently, don't jab and hammer.

I've had similar situations where uplift is/was a concern. On a wooden deck one can use long screws at an angle, 'toe-screwed'. Use a drill designed for Kreg screws and source a few of the plugs they make for the holes when exposed. If your painting they'll disappear.

Being limited to 130 means that there is no real benefit from a pump being two stage. But, CFM is the key. So I'd buy all the CFM both my budget and motor will support. Some two stage pumps offer more CFM than some single stage, but not all. You will have to do the math with pulley sizes...

Pioneer store online. Pioneerminisplit.com Don't know if they are sold out but that's my source. https://www.pioneerminisplit.com/collections/r410a-final-stocked-systems

I no longer have it, upgraded to a real vacuum pump years ago. The conversion is simple. I used a 1/4" male/male flare coupling with one end drilled out to fit the OD of the suction line, a short copper tube brazed to the compressor. Sweated that fitting on. The electrical part was just as...

My first vac pump was a scavenged compressor from an ancient refrigerator., 1970 or so. Sweated a fitting to the suction line, pumped a little oil in it with a squirt can on every use. Did a lot of older R12 car work with that.

Yeah, I was referring to PTACs. Maybe it is regional or contractor preference but all I've seen are hardwired. Most building owners avoid having units that occupants can disable.

I just installed a new 18K Pioneer low ambient model. It replaced a 7 year old Pioneer 12K unit that was/is still working perfectly, just undersized for my room addition. Now is a great time to buy as the 410A units are being priced to move. Mine cost less than $1100 shipped. Took me about 3...

My first A/C was a big window unit made by Fedders. It was made that way. IME, the window units were all supplied with a cord and plug. The ones intended for wall mount, like most motels use, did not have a factory cord but were intended to be hardwired. Several years back we bought a...

About the sleeve, a lot of older/larger/heavier window units where designed that way. You mount the case without dealing with all that weight, then slide the unit into the sleeve.

Rustoleum or one of the similar products. Cheap enough to practice as much as you want and with the addition of a hardener and proper reducers it will suffice for most home projects. Do use breathing protection however, no matter what you decide to use.

I think I second this. Depends entirely on the duration of the 20cfm requirement. Just a few seconds, maybe up to 30, more storage definitely. Ideally, I would not want the compressor to be needed after filling the storage, just pump it up and dump the stored air into the sprinklers...

Really depends on your planned use after the practice. Cars, cabinets, tool box ????? You really need to practice using a paint with similar characteristics of the planned paint. utility enamel, lacquer, urethane etc.