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Current status: Shelving has been accomplished and lift is installed.

Here's a cool one I dug up. A type 11 (1910-1918 No. 7C. The iron is the 1909-12 type, but it's super worn down, maybe .75 of an inch left. Check out how used the sole is. There's a tiny chip on the cap iron, but otherwise this thing looks like it's been well cared for but USED. I can't bring...

I'm assuming the "downside" is that they are harder to manufacture. According to VIM they have to take a regular short bit and machine it down.

These have saved my **** multiple times and they're great to stuff in the "roadside kit."

Hobby, the Ernst is socket rails/trays are really great, I have them for a few sets. For a pro/semi-pro, the VIM mag rails are just the Rolls Royce of tool organization in my opinion.

I have a few older Sunex sets in 3/8, but I really agree with this review on the new stuff:

Spark plug gap gauges. I know I'm not the only one as evidenced by the number of other bidders on ebay for the really wild ones. I try to keep the scope to Made in USA and worn/used. One of these days I'm going to build a proper display instead of keeping them in a drawer. I also have quite a...

Depends on the tools but as mentioned, Wright, Williams, Bahco, CDI, Grip-on, Proto, Facom, USAG would be professional quality but without the markup necessary for the truck business model. Zoro is stupid enough to send 20% off coupons and they're likely losing money. I'd try to take advantage...

I'm in!

Nothing wrong with lowballers, traders, etc. If I'm selling something I just want rid of it. I'll entertain all offers and it's really hard to hurt my feelings.

Well, I tried. This is as close as I could get: https://www.ebay.com/itm/156002453155 I wonder if they are for a different industry where you cut a lot of lines like HVAC?

I mean, that's a cabinet and chest to me. When I hear "cart" I assume "service cart" which is usually 100-200lbs of tools that get used multiple times per day on a cart that does a good job of rolling to the work.

Take this with a grain of salt as all my tools are "vintage" and I generally prefer old, finicky junk to new, safe, reliable, convenient tools but if I were going to buy a new bench top planer, I'd definitely check these guys out: https://cutechtools.us/pages/about-cutech looking at their import...

Hah, I beat James Wright to the punch by using this on old planes, credit to him though, he links back to the original video. I also used SLS (sodium laureth sulfate) instead of soap. I literally used only a pinch in an entire gallon of solution as SLS is a ridiculous surfactant.

It worked great, better than big box 2 part epoxy. I've glued them before too, but it has to be a clean break where you don't need to fill any gaps, I've also heard that the oil in rosewood will make glue less effective? I'm pretty gentle with planes so I haven't re-broken a glued tote.

The whole basket of tools was $8 or $15 and I'm not selling it so it was a great candidate to test out system 3 epoxy on the tote and the citric acid/washing soda rust dissolver. These mouth cracks don't really affect the utility of the tool though, just the value.

Here's the "before" picture of the lot I bid on, it was pretty hammered. Literally, it looked like someone had broken the tote with a hammer. The lever cap has two chips in it, and the mouth is cracked but it still leaves a beautiful finish on boards. I just have so many number 4, 5, and 7...

Two No. 4 planes from 1902-1908 or so. A Stanley type 9 and a Sargent Type 3. Both of these came from tool lots where I wanted other tools, but I couldn't throw these away. I swear I'm trying NOT to be a collector, but these aren't really worth enough to deal with the hassle of selling them so...

My Grandpa used to call a hammer a "swing press" and it still cracks me up every time think about it. My wife's uncle who was a finish carpenter his entire life helped us renovate our kitchen and I loved the standard carpentry jokes he'd mumble under his breath all day. "Damn it! I cut the board...

That might be the case if it has a tall re-saw like the Laguna 1412, but I've found that 110v just can't drive a bandsaw through much more than 4" of hardwood or 6-8" of softwood (like I assume you'll want to cut) which is why they don't usually have a giant resaw capacity. You can do it but it...