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did you already buy the wire? you don't need xhhw2, and its harder to pull than thwn. frankly the hardest part will be getting it thorugh the LBs, especially if you have back to back LBs (on outside and another immediately on the inside).

the panel is 125. but i'm currently reusing an old 100a breaker because at the time i couldn't find a reasonably priced 125. EDIT. but yeah, if the OP has no desire to go over 100a then #3 copper is the way to go... but the bulk of the work is digging the trench, so if you're going to do all...

If this is being inspected I would check with your inpsector first. Mine did not allow Al feeders to sub panels. the nice thing about running it in conduit is you can always pull new wires if needed. and direct bury is 24" deep vs. 18" in conduit = less digging. that extra 6" can hold a lot of...

if all he needs is 1 use then a $2 wood spade will work. drill a 1/8" pilot hole and go to town on that s.o.b. yeah it will destroy the bit... the $2 bit... but it will make the hole just fine.

this is how I did it. added 5 extra conductors to the main 3/4" conduit and nutted them off into the bottom corner. inspector didn't say a thing. I've never done electrical before so the Pros here can laugh all they want at my workmanship. took me a while to get the hang of bending EMT.

I think that's why my AHJ requires exterior receptacles at each person-door in addition to the switched light. they tried to tell me the lights had to be 3-way (2 doors) but I convinced them to let me get away with simple switches.

are you getting it inspected? you might ask the building dept what they require. mine requires the GEC to be in EMT inside the building up to the panel, and in Rigid outside the building to grade. and then for some reason they don't care what happens next so long as it picks up 2 rods 6ft apart...

I bit off way more than I can chew. here's a pic of me setting the 40ft 7x21 glulam ridge beam back in summer 2018. I am not a bulider. I work in marketing.

yeah I was thinking just dead ending them in juntion boxes in the ceiling down at the end of the line. but if I have 7 extra breakers installed he's going to know something's up. for now all I'm doing is the ceiling light, a light at the stairs with 3-way switches, exterior lights and outlets at...

ok you're making me second guess this. the electrical inspector seems pretty lax, but this is also part of the final inspection for the entire construction project and the main code inspector has been riding me hard to get it done (been working on it 30+ months) so I don't want to give him any...

I was planning to tape each end for ID. the circuits are not planned out, but I know I'll need a bunch more lighting and power I just don't know exactly where yet. I'm running 3/4 pipe out of the panel and I'd rather keep it to one pipe. yes I could easily add more pipes in the future, but I'd...

in an effort to get past final inspection I'm doing the bare minimum wiring on my garage. but I'd like to run a bunch of extra wires now so I can add more dedicated circuits later without having to pull new wires through conduit that already has a bunch of wire in it. so - can I run a bunch of...

because I bought it long before I asked for help and I didn't know what I needed. thanks for clearing this up.

I think I am confused by AC and MC and their applications. The outlet is on the exterior wall of the garage. I used a metal outdoor rated outlet box in the wall which I know I didn't need but it made for a cleaner water tight install. My outside outlets on the house are loose and leak and...

My village requires EMT for all interior wiring. However I know FMC is allowed for some cases as my house has whips for celing lights in the basement. Village code only says NEC 2014 + EMT required. Nothing about ground conductors for FMC. I've heard a few different stories on this --- some...

at first he said 135. when I questioned him on that he rolled his eyes, got very irritated with me, pulled out his code book and showed me this table and said "its actually 165". at that point I shut up (yes I knew it was the wrong table, and wrong column). oh, he also told me aluminum feeders...

LOL... because my inspector said so... but he also told me #3 cu was good for 165A, RMC 90s were required underground, using the meter base as a raceway was permitted, etc... hence my caveat to "double check that.." EDIT. I'm pretty sure this is the source of confusion with my inspector on this...

the 60A feeder to the detached garage must be 24" deep if direct bury. 18" if in conduit. I don't think you're allowed to have a continuous metal conduit running from house panel to garage panel, though -- double check that. you need 2 ground rods at the garage, and a 4 wire feeder with...

I am replacing an existing 20 space subpanel with a 30 space panel. due to the size difference a handful of wires will not reach where they need to go (some hots and neutrals). am I allowed to add "extenders" onto the existing wires to make them longer to reach the breakers and neutral bus...

well I hope the inspector doesn't go by that code because most of my LBs would fail it - which is odd. I see there's an exception if your conduit fill is below a certain level (which mine is). I mounted a 6x6x4 box on the house and have the 2" conduit coming in from the bottom and out the back...