Search results

Bimmer1980 has the right answer.

My price is turnkey for the wall. No site work. I would want to include a buttress wall in the middle of the 30' and turn the corner for at least 6' on each side.

For ICF houses 6" block, I start at about $10.50 sf...Wall footage. I'm doing so 30' high 8" block at $18sf. You'd have to build ICF walls first. Then order the steel.

Yes, Steel setting on top of ICF wall. I have pics...somewhere. I'r really good a taking pics....never downloading and sorting. Let me do some checking.

You'll never be close to that price with ICF or Poured wall. Metal building is just so economical!! Probably double the cost. You could pour an ICF retaining wall and leave the rest of the building steel. Which is what I would do, If I were in your shoes.

You just need headroom above the unit. Probably should slope the roof upwards as well.

Put the light bulb in with a thermometer. Adjust wattage up or down to raise or lower the temp. I've used snake cage heaters for my homebrew. Has a thermometer built in.

Just an FYI: http://buildblock.com/products/radiant_flooring/ezfloor.asp

Tapcons, PL400, Wedge-alls. Mix and match if you have too. I always use glue. The mechanical anchors are only holding till the glue dries. You will need to provide a place inside the wall (2x6) for the door tracks to mount to. I'd use Wedge-alls and glue here. You'll need 2x4 header on top...

These guys did me right! http://www.ipedepot.com/picelist01.htm

I believe I can backfill to 14' with the Prescriptive method(no engineering). I've done 18' with buttress walls...engineered. How many inches do you want 4,6,8,10,12,14,16? I've done 6" with 10' backfill. I'd use Steel sheet or Ply/osb. Brick, stucco, stone anything is possible. I most...

I've actually seen worse!! This looks like temporary wiring for a remodel...yeah, yeah that's it! Stud is drilled too close to the face, box for switches not nailed, splices should be in a box and accessible. Staples are good enough for MOST inspectors.

Going with ICF, you have an awesomely strong, quiet, energy efficient structure! ICF would be cheaper than a poured wall. 20' sidewalls are no problem. The height of your walls will not cause any extra blow out issues. I stack 1000's of blocks per year and haven't had a blow out since 2000...

I gave some misinformation....guess if work for the white house now. I have too many product names in my head at this point. Here is product that I have used. http://www.deltadistributing.com/vinyl_decking/decklok.html I was super impressed with it.

I've used a product by Royal Crown, Brock Deck. Embossed, Virgin PVC. Best decking I've ever used. It is tongue and grove. 2x price of PT though. It is a lifetime product. I bleached and pressure washed about 1 time a year. Wife was spilling hummingbird food. If I ever needed decking for...

This is what I use when possible. I've had extremely good results. http://www.builderonline.com/construction/working-with-helical-piers.aspx Get a soil report and go from there. Anything else is pure speculation.

Really its board ft=12"x12"x1". Yes, that's the vinyl. I can show you how nasty it is at a shop in Leesville, La. Call Jody at Southwest Insulators 337-945-4178. Tell him Don sent you. He's a great, honest guy. He's a straight shooter that will do the job right.

I've put the in kitchens many times. Homeowners love them. You can buy pieces and parts online to customize them for exactly what you need. They'd be perfect over a work bench.

Also, check your door bell. I've seen houses where electrician "forgot" to add bell wire. Added it to closest outlet to front door. But It is very rare.

I'd pull that outside gfi and check for water in the box. The plastic covers have been known to funnel water into the box. Then pull every plug out just enough to check all your wiring. You probably have a neutral (white) touching a ground somewhere along the way. I've seen happen many...