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We had one of those at a shop I worked at. Was a pretty nice unit. I liked it for bigger van and truck tires because of the orientation. I could have sworn ours was an FMB, but I guess it must have been a hunter. Only one I ever saw around here like that. Nice score!

Nice! Good chance that we made the handles for your Hu-Friedy's. We don't make them all, but we do make a lot. If the handles are solid stainless or hollow octagon shaped, we probably made it. The ends, they make in their own machine shop. The quality of legit dental tools is excellent...

CF-7 is for holding valve spring keepers for reassembly. A160A is for removal of some 50's door handle clips

Remember that 400 series stainless is magnetic. These are the martensitic series stainless', so a magnet test does not help much. 409 stainless is (or at least was) the stainless used for catalytic converter shells.

A number of automotive exhaust bolts are stainless. Older Honda manifold outlet nuts and studs were. It was a challenge to remove them at times because they would gall if you worked them too much or heated them excessively. Nature of the beast for stainless unless you get into Nitronic. A...

Ok, basic OD of thread major is .138" then. I will say that is smaller than I expected. I would still try to make one from an external tooth lockwasher, though I would make that receiver die and form it there instead of relying on the thread strength to pull it into shape with something as...

Do you have a caliper or micrometer by chance? If you can measure the OD I can tell you the basic size. Probably a no.10 screw, but that is just a guess.

I will have to try this with my cheapo unit next time. I bet it works great.

Now that looks like the ticket. I have a cheap spot blaster off brand gun, but not with recovery. That is a great idea. Black beauty is messy, but super cheap. Menards used to sell that stuff for like $9 a bag.

Yeah, that is BS stuff there. I used to type disclaimers on all my tickets where a problem was not fixed outside of my control or parts were falling off. Did not do much most of the time, but jogged a couple memories once or twice. A comeback is when I made a mistake that I should not have...

I would suggest an external tooth lock washer in the proper screw size and form it into the correct shape. You could use the screw and a receiver die with a hole and matching countersink to form it. You could also just assemble and tighten it and let it form that way as well.

We used nice Akebono Pro ACT or top line Centric on most American and Japanese stuff. Noise complaints were what we were trying to avoid the most. North Shore folks were very particular at times and honestly, I would not be happy with dog whistle brakes either. Euro got Euro parts from...

Cutoff wheel is a good idea. I used cup wire brushes and a mini needle scaler. Love that needle scaler for so many things. Used to tell the apprentices, if the new pads don't fit in and you think you need to grind them down to get them in, stop and get the rust out of the bracket, because it...

I've used the flap wheels when they fit the bore. You get one or two calipers and they are done. Again, that was on my dime not the shop's. Gets to be too expensive to do when you are only making a little money on the job in the first place. I would generally torch pins if I could get a...

Did not see that The Cobbler suggested the sandpaper idea too...

I had the same issues when I was still pulling wrenches professionally. Wire brushes don't really work, they just polish the rust. Hones wear fast, but at least cut a bit for a while. The abrasive loads up with rust and they cut poorly then. The oil should help clear the pores in the stones...

That might have been a backing plate for a chuck. That would explain three equidistant holes. Can't remember if smaller logans used that? I believe I have seen that thread before, just can't remember where.

I recently bought the harbor freight surface conditioner that others posted. With the aggressive wheel, it will take that to clean metal. I have used it on several restoration pieces and a couple new fabrication pieces. If it dies now it was still worth the $99 cost. It is that useful and...

My Sheldon Lathe originally had a mechanical tach hooked up to the original worthington drive. It was just basically a speedometer cable interfaced to the lower spindle pulley shaft. I had all the intentions of hooking it up to the replacement drive, but have not done it yet.

How often does this cover need to come off? Can you drill the hole deeper without compromising the case integrity? Usually the issue with disassembly and reassembly multiple times is that eventually the insert comes out with the screw. Normally if you can just put a new one in, it is just a...