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I had no idea they made any besides Proto and those craftsman ones, just my opinion but I find the handle is too thin to be comfortable when I'm really reefin on something.

Other than looks, I don't see any advantage to a SS box. We had regular powder coated steel roll cabs at the brewery I worked at, and never had any problems with rust other than slight surface rust where the paint was chipped. That brewery is like 90% humidity all the time and everything is...

Hopefully the OP got this figured out within the last 13 years.....

ASCO, Norgren, Wilkerson, ARO, SMC, Festo, Fisher, Numatics.....I've worked with pretty much all of the industrial brands, none of them seem to perform any better than the other. Personally I'm partial to Norgren, because their customer support is really good.

If it pulls in fine with the suicide cord, I would be willing to bet your problem isn't the contactor or its contacts. That's an IEC contactor, generally they're not serviceable. It sounds like a problem in the wiring somewhere. Post up a wiring diagram so we know what's in the circuit.

Leased cylinders will generally have a cylinder number on them, usually with a barcode these days. Sometimes you can call the LWS or the filler (praxair, Linde, airgas etc.) and they can look up the cylinder. If someone sells you a leased cylinder then they're not super bright, the cylinder...

I wish all of my feeds out there were on breakers instead of fused disconnects, but the feed is the customer's responsibility and the contracts only specify the type of service and not the type of OCP....pretty dumb if if you ask me. My main has an unused shunt trip option, I think it would...

What is your voltage at going to the coil when it's trying to pull in? +1 for wiring a suicide cord directly to the coil to check. Do you have a wiring diagram?

I've seen railroad guys using something like these, pretty neat.

UPDATE. Turns out there's a 1000A fused disconnect switch between the pole and my main hiding in a shack that wasn't on the one-line. One phase completely open, one phase partially open. Time to propose phase monitoring for the whole site instead of just the main motor. As always, thanks...

The Cylinders and valves are specific to the type of gas they are storing, Some gases can share a cylinder type, some can't but it's not up to the consumer to decided what goes where. Each type of gas also has a unique valve connection to prevent someone from hooking up an argon cylinder to a...

I don't think there's much use in them for the every day DIY'r or really even in residential, Industry is a different story though. NFPA 70E requires insulated tools when working on or near live stuff over 50volts. I think the Code of Federal regulations and OSHA has something about it too...

We had this Dayton at the brewery I worked at. Awesome unit, but pretty expensive....and heavy. https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Pressure-Washer-486Z83

I just wipe mine down with whatever oily rag is around, usually after an oil change or something. I've had a steel top on my tool box for years, it's held up great even in midwest humidity (I used to live in St. Louis).

I have a Milwaukee M18 cordless wet dry vac... 9 times out of 10 I grab that thing before my plug in RIDGID.

I have an ESAB rebel EMP 215ic (the DC only one) that I bought back in like 2015/2016...whenever they first came out. I wish they would have made the 205ic AC/DC back then though because I do need AC sometimes. I have a Miller multimatic 225 ac/dc at work that's also great but I actually like...

That wouldn't surprise me either. It's about 15 years old, pretty extreme weather out there most of the time. 70mph winds, rain, hail, hot summers, cold winters you name it, they get pretty much everything besides hurricanes out there.

My main breaker is open and this is a dedicated feed. So unless there is a break or bad insulation under ground somewhere between the pole and my main there's no load anywhere and nowhere that could feed back. That wouldn't surprise me in the least though, it's pretty swampy out there right...

I've checked with two different meters. Both multimeters were verified on a known good 480v supply. It's solidly grounded wye which explains some of the readings close to 277. The first set of readings sort of makes sense to me, but the second set still has me scratching my head....why did...

Meters verified on a known good power source, both checked out (T5-1000 and 87-V) That's why I ran down to the other site; different power company down there so I could double check that my meters were working. It's only the one service, second set of readings is just from a couple of hours...