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It's not just the M18s. My M12 2403 drill has a horrible chuck. It won't stay tight on the bit. I've hated it for the entire 3 years I've owned it. I really like the rest of my M12 & M18 tools. Would like to find another chuck if anyone knows which Rohm or other quality replacement to get. DC

If you're talking about any kind of powered vent, they typically use more electricity than they save by lowering the attic temperatures. Most building scientists won't recommend them. One of the best options is a properly designed unvented attic assembly with insulation under the roof deck...

Is it possible to pick a convenient location for the new meter so that it could serve both the house and the shop? For example, you could install a 340 amp meter base that has two sets of load lugs. Run wire from one set of lugs to the new shop and from the other set of lugs to the house. DC

I put a couple of these in my workshop: https://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-7861400-Industrial-Three-Blade/dp/B001B1C8Q6/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=westinghouse+industrial+ceiling+fan&qid=1568743764&s=gateway&sr=8-4 The 5 speed controllers are a bit clunky looking and it takes awhile to get...

Compressing a fiberglass R13 batt into 2" of space will net you roughly R8.5 according to Owens Corning. Add an R15 mineral wool batt to that and you end up with R23.5 overall. A standard fiberglass batt for a 2x6 wall gets you about R21. DC

I've installed 3 of the Lightkiwi systems. So far I'm happy with the results. You can get 6" modules or 12" modules in either warm white or cool white colors. They are dimmable. Here's a link to their stuff on Amazon...

My walls were 2x4. I'm surprised Roxul for 2x6 walls isn't readily available. I suppose you could do a hybrid installation by installing and then compressing some unfaced fiberglass R13 batts along with a layer of 3.5" Roxul. Compressing the fiberglass will derate the r-value a bit but since...

Actually, they do. You currently have tenants paying for electricity that is being used by someone else. Not only do they need to reset all meters involved, they need to determine how long this has been going on and make an attempt to correct all previous bills that were in error. That's a...

If the meters are smart meters, the PoCo will know immediately what has happened. A sharp meter reader will easily figure out that meters are in different spots because the meter reading handheld computer they carry has meters listed in a certain order. They are trained to watch for this...

I agree. I primarily went with Roxul for my workshop (all walls, bottom layer of ceiling insulation - top layer was fiberglass to help control costs). Mineral wool has better r-value per inch, blocks sound and air flow better, and has better fire resistance. All around better product than...

That's probably best. Kraft paper is somewhat of a smart vapor retarder. It normally blocks the movement of water vapor but if the interior wall cavity became wet, the kraft paper would open up and allow some drying. But, it would take a longer time. If kraft faced insulation is cheaper or...

Closed cell spray foam is probably the best answer but can be a fairly costly option. If you choose to not use foam, you'll need a ventilation channel under the roof deck where each bay has an intake and exhaust vent. That likely means a continuous soffit and continuous ridge vent. If you...

Good point. A hybrid assembly can certainly be less expensive. However, you have to install enough closed cell foam to prevent condensation and that amount is climate dependent and is different for walls vs ceilings or roof decks. The OP is in South Dakota. He is either in climate zone 5 or...

3" of closed cell foam is about R21 at best. Great for your walls but not enough in your climate for the roof deck. Google climate zone r-value chart for specific recommendations. However, even with that, don't discount a heat pump. Many of the newer heat pumps are efficient down to much...

One aspect of radiant barriers that few consider is payback. Once you've addressed heat gain/loss via convection and conduction by properly air sealing and installing the correct amount of insulation, the incremental gain from installing a radiant barrier is rarely cost effective. There was...

Sounds like a good plan. You definitely need to make sure you have enough ventilation of the space above the insulation. BuildingScience.com and GreenBuildingAdvisor are a couple of resources where you can find info on proper attic ventilation. At a minimum, you need at least the same...

Contractor is wrong. Insulation will not cause mold issues. Water and/or water vapor intrusion into wall cavities can cause mold issues. The contractors responsibility is to make the walls air and water tight while allowing the walls to breathe to one side or the other to allow water vapor to...

Kraft paper is a Class II vapor retarder. It can breathe somewhat. I found one blurb online from a building scientist that said "The paper is vapor closed unless the wall cavity becomes wet, at which point the paper becomes vapor open to allow drying." Owns Corning said this in one of their...

Thanks for the input. That panel is bit much for my needs. Having enough slack might be the issue. Yep. My existing workshop panel is Square D. Prefer to just move the 15A breaker to a new Square D panel. I've found this 4 space panel which should work...

Thanks. I've used Trimec before with good results. Can't remember why I got away from it. DC