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It's alright, I'm going over to the shop today, I know G/D uses the same 3/8" setscrews on their small machines. I'll take a look at the torque spec. on them and let you know. After all the compressor doesn't know who made them. If it is not a loose valve I remember and old Quincy cogger told...

From the looks in the pic. the discharge lines are under the pump, they tie the heads together being a single stage pump. When you go to check the machine since you can't see it run is: 1. Turn the pump over by hand and feel for any binding, should be nice and smooth. 2. Unscrew the inlet...

Miss type, I meant breached tank. If there is a hole from rust, or maybe where the vibration of the machine has cracked the tank at the leg weld. Someplace where the air can get thru the tank. Kinda like when you poke a needle into a balloon, this is what happens only on a larger and more...

Just because the compressor can make 175 psi doesn't mean you have to run 175 psi. The pressure switch can be adjusted down, the instructions are usually under the pressure switch cover. And as a byproduct of running the pressure you will get more usable cfm, and cause less wear and tear on the...

OK, you got me on the oil pump on the later 325's. Only the very early ones were splashed lube. Since you're so sure about the torque, I won't tell you to go to the Quincy home page, click on the Brochures & Manuals, the type in the search "QR-25 Series Instruction Manual" take your choice...

If you are talking about the tube from the crankcase to the Lp. head, this is a crankcase venting. There is a one way valve coming out of the head, to the tube to the crankcase. I use to import these "clones" for Israel in the 80's and 90's. And guess what, they were made from molds that I/R...

The oil pump on Quincy compressors were an option, and still are. Most of the older units came with oil pumps because it didn't cost that much more, not the case these days. The torque value I gave came right out of an original Quincy owners manual. The manual does not have an "official"...

Would you believe the valve parts are made out of special stainless steel, heat treated and ground to precise dimension's! They are usually stamped with expensive dies also. Try as you may to make your own, it won't be worth the time or effort. A beached tank is a bomb, it is not an urban...

Jammer, I can get valve parts for the Kellogge 211, you are right about the rings. I have suggested in the past to look into the tractor restoration guys, they come up with all kinda parts to keep them running. Arkansawer, Call Air-Flo 1-800-845-0125 Monday they can get ya a kit.

When you pipe the discharge pipe to the compressor, you want a check valve in the line between the compressor and the tank. This will keep the air in the tank and your compressor won't fight the air coming back from the tank. You have two choices, a swing check or a in-tank check valve. The...

You are correct it is a I/R 242. As far as it putting out more cfm than a S/B 705, I doubt it. You only get so much air per Hp. on these industrial machines. The S/B 703 is a 3 Hp. machine, not the same size. The mystery tube from the Hp head is how the centrifugal unloader unloads the head...

The valve set screw torque for a 325 is 60 LBS.

I don't think that I/R will do the trick, while it is a step in the right direction. The V235 is a vacuum pump, single stage machine. It will work as a compressor, 3 or 5 Hp., but don't expect a lot of pressure, 125 max. From the looks of the tag it is from the 50's to early 60's. This will...

What is listed looks to be a Curtis Challenge air compressor. At 18 cfm that would put it at a 5 Hp. unit. It says it is 1 phase not 1 stage. This machine is a two stage machine. I agree $1200 is way too much, but it would run a small 1 person blast cabinet. Half that price would be top end.

I did some checking and a rebuild kit is about $80 if this is a R15, would need to know the model for sure and if the compressor has unloaders.

Just fyi according to The Compressed Air Data Handbook by Ingersoll Rand 1920. A 1/4" orifice will flow 94.8 cfm @ 90 psi. Putting your air thru a hose and throw in a couple of elbows for friction, you will still be flowing better than 90 cfm. It all comes down to HP. You will never get more...

I see it a couple times a week, where do I get parts for my cobalt/husky/chinese compressor? You can't. It is disposable, you go buy a new one. Do yourself a favor, stay away from anything that has how many hours the thing will run printed on the tank. If you want something that will last...

Check the bottom of the tank for rustthrough. From the pic. I don't think you'll find any. Make sure you get a 1740-1760 rpm motor and a plulley that will get the compressor in the 700-800 rpm range.

Keep your compressor rpm under 800 if you wany it to last any time.

cwlo is on the money. The Lowes or HD unit is a disposable compressor. If the pump is in good working order offer $200 or less and get a motor. It appears to have a starter box, if it is a single phase starter, that's one less thing you'll need to get it running. There is a big difference...