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I believe the 'VT' stands for 'Vertical Tank' although your description states "Horizontal Tank". Hope you didn't order the wrong one! S-B builds great pumps, you'll be very happy with it. Where bouts are you located in Ca?

Anything over 3/4" sag in a 12' rafter IS ridiculous in my book.

Since you've already removed all the storage / weight, unless you have a ridiculous sag in a 12' +/-, why not leave it? If you are intent on removing the sag, it would be easier and cheaper to use a bottle jack and post placed at the center of one rafter at a time, jack it up to remove the sag...

Forget the 1x3!! That's a 'fail' waiting to happen. You COULD go with the 2x4 blocking between the trusses, but that's a lot of 2x4 material and time. Go with the HAT CHANNEL, if you open the link I posted above and click on 'SUBMITTALS' you will see that it's available in various gauges...

Back in the day, I always used Mayes levels on the jobsite as they are adjustable... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077FV7VT7/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Take a look at metal 'Hat Channel'... https://www.clarkdietrich.com/products/furring-channel-hat-channel#submittals BTW, 1/2" standard sheetrock weighs 1.78# sq. ft. USG offers 'ultralight' which weighs 1.375# sq. ft.

Binks used the Quincy pumps on their small portable units for many years. The 216 is a single stage pump (max 100 psi) and that particular pump is a 'pilot run' unit which means it runs continuously, loads & unloads via the pilot valve. The small cover with 5 bolts is were a hydraulic unloader...

Larry, the Tsunami's work well also. I installed one for a friend and so far he has been very happy with it but we're in San Diego so freezing is not a factor. The Tsunami operates at the end of each pump cycle, but it can only expel the moisture that has had time to condense and flow to the...

The model I use on our shop compressor is the Bekomat 14... https://www.bekosales.com/bekomat-standard-14.php I use the model 31 on my home compressor... https://www.bekosales.com/bekomat-standard-31.php The Bekomat units are float actuated NOT timer. Mine have worked flawlessly, a 1-2 second...

That's NOTHING!!!! Many years ago we framed a (two floors over parking) 40 unit condo project. One weekend the electricians came in and cut a 1-1/2" X 1-1/2" notch on the BOTTOM (tension) edge, directly in the CENTER of the span of the 1st floor joist, from end to end! Needless to say, that was...

Those lucky 'flatlanders' don't know how good they have it, do they? I totally understand your situation. I'm guessing it's a fairly steep slope? 'Back in the day' it was a fairly standard rule, '2 feet deeper than 7 feet away', but now there are many variables in Ca. depending on location and...

I assume that you do not have the original building plans? Since you have a 2nd floor, the double studs could be carrying a floor beam or double joist or even transferring a roof load to the foundation. Without research, you'll never know. Don't assume...they are there for a specific purpose.

If you're going as far as including hold downs for seismic control, you'd be money ahead to pour continuous footings and stem wall, then you can include the proper Simpson SSTB anchor bolts in the footing, then frame stem walls to floor height OR do masonry walls to floor height. Either way...

Post a few pics of the pump and someone here will most likely know the manufacturer. As long as it's always had oil changes and the crankcase is not full of water (condensation) and the intake filter maintained, the most you would want to do is a valve job.

Bottom line, the double studs were there for a reason. Research it further.

First, you'd be much better off to use joist hangers to attach the joist to the beams as this allows the plywood to nail to both, the floor joist AND the beams creating a diaphragm floor system (meaning it can't rack out of square) Second, you would need to either block between the 4X6 or use a...

32 years of framing experience speaking here. Assuming 'normal' shed storage, I would go with your "ladder" configuration BUT, If using 4X6 beams, I would break the 15' span down to 5' (4 posts) and use 2x6 joist @ 16"o/c rather than 4x6 @ 24" o/c. Use 3/4" T&G ply for flooring. If it were...

Here you go... https://www.manualslib.com/manual/747857/Cummins-1204.html?page=10#manual

Reviewing the parts breakdown, it appears you should have 3 types of springs, 4 of LP intake, 2 of HP intake and 4 of LP/HP exhaust, for a total of 10 springs.

As the valve springs are critical for pump performance, I personally would not use anything not specifically designed for that pump.