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Joel, you can either spend your time trying to get a good seal or just replace the unit... https://www.eindustrialsolutions.com/aftermarket-quincy-6278x-hydraulic-unloader-assembly I have come to realize that you're very tenacious regarding 'fixing' things, but time is money so you need to choose.

Nice. It's a single stage pump, so I'm shocked that it building that much pressure. This is my first time seeing a model 212. So someone by-passed the hydraulic unloader (probably inoperable, I'd guess) and plumbed the head unloaders directly to the pressure switch. That being said, the pump...

Saw sized lumber may look cool, but now days with manufactured joist availability, I wouldn't give saw sized lumber any thought. The 2 big problems with saw sized lumber is # 1, inconsistent dimensions...a 2x12 could range from 11-1/8" to 11-1/2" wide. #2, crown...one may be totally straight...

It's surely possible that you could have one or more WF beams, without seeing the structural floor plan or opening the floor up, it's a **** shoot. In my years of framing, the only time I'd see a WF beam was in the event that the floor joist were too shallow to allow a deep enough wood beam...

Yes, if it indeed RC, then it would be between the drywall and joist. I was thinking that if your installer was using a stud finder, it possibly could hit off the joist located between the RC, which could be why he said both metal and wood joist...just a guess. I would not hang ANYTHING off of...

You may have 'Resilient Channel' attached to the bottom of the floor/ceiling joist. Sometimes it's installed for sound control and sometimes for fire rating... https://www.abdengineering.com/blog/resilient-channel-installation/

Although the wall does have a footing under it and is a bearing wall at the first floor, Technically it becomes a non-bearing wall at the 2nd floor. This being said, I wanted it to be clear that even though the wall COULD transfer load to the footing, it SHOULDN'T...unless of course you have 3...

Let me elaborate on my statement in which I believe you're referring to...Picture a 2 story house with a interior bearing wall that carries floor joist and the 2nd floor wall stacks over it. This IS a case where even though it's a bearing wall, the roof trusses would not bear on it. I have in...

That is correct. The exterior walls are where you would use the hurricane ties.

Doesn't matter if the wall is bearing or non-bearing, the truss must be free to move vertically, except at it's exterior bearing points of course. https://www.strongtie.com/trussclips_platedtrussconnectors/tc_roofclips/p/stc.stct.dtc

Trusses are built with some camber built into them to allow for weight of sheeting and roofing materials. This is why you use slotted truss clips to tie off interior non-bearing walls to the bottom chords. You don't drive the slot nail tight into the truss to allow vertical movement.

I didn't state "Neck Rings" I said "Stamped". I had quite a few 300 cu' cylinders with non-OEM glue on neck rings that covered the original distributors name. Westair actually stamped their name into the cylinders. The Matheson driver informed me that he can't legally (I don't know the...

Is your cylinder 'customer owned' or does it have 'AIRGAS' stamped into it ? If it's customer owned you can sell or trade it, if 'Airgas' is stamped on it, you're screwed. Try Matheson, they have 6 locations in the LA area. I switched over to them a couple of years ago from Westair and have been...

Jeeeez...NOW, you're just showing off!

Okay Tig, I've seen your garage / set-up so you have no excuses...15 minute fix tops...probably faster than you can make the call and set-up an appointment. Don't be a wuss, just fix it! Ain't noth'n to it, but to do it!

Negative. 592 is good to 10,000psi. https://shop.boeing.com/aviation-supply/p/59231=6P#:~:text=Service Temperature: -65 - 400,Pressure Resistance: 10000 psi I have used it for years on all my compressors...and it smells great!

Not correctly! Just take them apart, clean all the threads (male & female) apply Loctite 592 thread sealant and re-assemble. Easy-peezy!

Got to read between the lines...he mentions "top plates", so you have to assume 'wall'. So I assume he framed the gable end wall level instead of as a rake wall, so he ends up with a level hinge point at the top plate/ gable truss bottom chord point. He wants to run the pipe to make a 'strong...

The best answer is to frame your wall as a rake wall (match the bottom chord of your scissor truss) and have 'gable fill' added to the scissor placed on the wall. This eliminates the hinge once you run your catwalks through.

I see no mention that you indeed even have a pressure switch. As Mac has stated, without a valve to switch between start-stop (pressure switch) and continuous run (pilot valve) your current plumbing is set-up for constant run only. Start off replacing your hydraulic unloader...