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Do you want a lighthouse without any pesky wiring? Go big or go home: http://englishrussia.com/2009/01/06/abandoned-russian-polar-nuclear-lighthouses/

Yeah and don't monkey with your drinking water! That wire down into that hole is expensive to fix. Any plumber/ electrician will blame you or each other if there's ever a problem.

They make universal electronic ballasts that'll run T8 or T12. Do this if you like the color your current T12s put out or have a case of them you're slowly working through. As a bonus the flickering and dancing of the light should be better with electronic ballast. The label on the ballast...

Why do they put 50 amp clamps on a 6 amp charger? Is that like saying an aftermarket carb is good for "up to" 1200 hp? :D

I hope the toilets are flushing. :D

Might want to get a disposable one time use credit card number from your bank.

My two car garage has a couple foot gap between the inner two door tracks. Have a flourescent longitudinally in there. Also gets down into the car wheel wells a little bit. I'd worry about vibration with track-mounted bulbs. Also I set up another 4 foot flourescent so it's above the windows...

If you're going to keep 120V 20A service to your garage I don't see why you're messing with a subpanel, unless you want control over single breakers within the garage. 20 Amp service is adequate for any "normal plug equipped (15A)" device plus a few lights. But if you have a 20 Amp breaker for...

Well you could use the 12/2 but it would gain you zero capacity. The 12/3 would double it and let you brag that you have 240V in your garage, even though it wouldn't be enough to do much with. (My welder takes 40 Amps for example.) IDK why sub panels don't come with the ground bus bar, it's...

Er, you mean 220 Volts. If you go this way you or your electrician (get help! pleeeeaaaase) will need to scrounge up some more 12-3 and run it from your box to your inside switch where the 12-3 starts, or to intercept it in the basement. Yes you'll need a 2 pole 20 amp breaker.

^ spot on!

I'm going to reiterate what's said above and that you need to run a bigger thicker wire if you want "more power", your 12-2 is limited to 20 amps. If you really have 12-3 that ends in a convenient spot (eg in or within reach of your main box) you can run a 240V, 20 amp breaker in your main box...

No you can't have 14-2 anywhere unless you change the breaker ($4). Or if you put in a "subpanel" with a 15 amp breaker at the end of the thicker wire. Hey, odds are good you won't plug a 20 amp thing into that outside outlet.

Most T12 fixtures I've seen have the frosted back of the bulb butting against or very close to a reflector. That light has to then bounce sideways at a bad tangent or back through the bulb including through two layers of frosting dust. I don't see it as efficient in practice as it could be in...

Where's your breaker box? Is it full?

Well they shouldn't have printed on it that it was good through the 27th. :D For an email printout without a serial number, I don't see how they could really limit it against someone buying something, taking it out to the car, and coming back in five minutes alter and buying the same thing...

How did the 1500 watt inverter fail? Was it running off a cig lighter plug? I think you're barking up the right tree. Hardwire an inverter up to your battery or underhood fusebox. Do some load testing, run it at about 75% of what it can max handle. Then add another inverter and run two...

Wonder what commodity product they are reasonably priced on I could use this for. Like a terabyte hard drive or a windows license. Good find, OP.

A silver series shows $3.14 but when I put it in the cart it's $3.49. Yup, 50% off like you say, but the website is a piece of junk. (like always)

I like the "noise" idea. When I plug in my dumb battery charger (just a simple noisy transformer) my T12s go nuts for a few seconds until the battery charger "settles in".