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You win...until you don't :pimpflash

So you'd prefer a wild and wooly West-type atmosphere where everybody just makes up their own rules; especially the owners of the company you're working at?

I finish my pocket cuts with recip or a jigsaw.

Have you tried pulling all the way out and lifting the front of the drawer up? Some just sit on the rail with bent-over tabs. On other's, there's a spring-type piece that locks the drawer to the rail, just pop them off. Some are screwed to the rails in some cases.

Over time, not much is going to stand up somebody throwing a welder on top of it. I don't understand why you can't take a few extra seconds to put the box out of harm's way.

Why aren't you going after the guy who broke your existing slab? He broke he should fix it or compensate you for it.

A lot of good inexpensive heavy-duty drills on eBay. I've got a couple of Hole shooters off there, but I've also got a triple reduction Black&Decker 1/2" that I've had for forty-five years, small and compact, but you can't hold on to it if it grabs without the auxiliary handle...and then maybe...

Do a test piece; that stuff goes on pretty thick and covers up a lot of that pitting. See if you can live with the look. Stuff I've seen coated with didn't look too bad; pits just gave it "character":pimpflash

Buy the gaskets 21a, and 21b; they sell them as a set.

Greasing a motor greasing motors

Non-loadbearing, I put a stud in the existing wall widthwise where the new wall will be and tie it to that. Load-bearing, I cut the double top plate out to make room for the intersecting double top plate and support each cut side with a stud, and sandwich a stud widthwise between them. Some just...

The place I worked brazed them. I don't remember getting any back for a refit.

If you're thinking about using something like JB Weld to try to seal it, do it now before it starts to leak and the area gets wet. Clean it up with a little emery paper and smear it on.

Evaluate, Repair and Adjust a Second-Hand Micrometer

Get some all-thread whatever size you like; cut into three/four-inch lengths and weld to the side of the columns. I'd do it one high/one low on each side of the column to as many columns as you're going to use.

Screws are recessed in the track; head size won't matter. Drilling off a bit with a Tapcon shouldn't matter.

A lot of good information here: OXY-ACETYLENE WELDING AND CUTTING This is under the "Manual Cutting" tab Legend for Fig. 22-2 1. This well-made cut has square edges; the drag lines are essentially vertical, and not too pronounced. 2. Because preheat flames were too small, this cut was made too...

If that ****** is 11.5mm(0.45275"), you'll need something a tiny bit over that size so it will slip in and not be metal to metal. A 29/64(0.453125") drill just might do the job if it drills slightly over-size. If it's still too tight, you'll have to polish the ****** a bit to get it to fit. Or...

Panavise 209 1" Light Duty Multi-Angle Vise With Suction Cup Base

Are you sure you got all the old gasket out? Check the mating surfaces closely, maybe a small crack. Look in the threaded hole to make sure there's no hole going thru to the waterside. If there is, wrap the screw with a few wraps of Teflon tape. Get a tube of RTV sealant/gasket maker at the auto...