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Yes, but you'll probably want to double check you have ~24VAC between the R and the C terminals before you go too far.

Your G wire is likely for the fan, to allow for the fan to circulate air without kicking on the heat. I assume you could connect a spade terminal to the terminal marked "C" on your image.

I thought of this thread when I saw the email come through yesterday. Maybe there is a Zooz lurker on this board that pushed through this device!

Probably not if you want to meet Code...

Did you follow the air flow chart to make sure you didn't slow down the speed too much? I'd be afraid of getting those coils too hot.

Make/model of air handler? Any schematics to share?

Could you have the transfer switch at the pole? Or have the utility supply one as part of the meter change?

I'd be tempted to go down the path of putting a subpanel local or on the lift. Example in this thread: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/wiring-2-post-lift-to-be-multi-functional.498765/

How old is your heat pump if it isn't working well for you? In your climate a modern heat pump should have no issue keeping up.

I’ve been patiently waiting for the tech to take off, but it’s just not there yet. CO2 seems to be well suited as well as the refrigerant.

I don't think the shared circuit version sounds cheesy, but it does mean you are capped at how much heat you can transfer into the tank per hour. A 50 gallon gas is going to have a pretty good recovery, which may mean you will have to upsize to an 80 gallon tank to get similar performance...

Interesting, sometimes you see two 2-pole breakers at a sufficient size (20A all the way up to 40A). Do you have a circuit diagram, installation instructions, or even an air handler model number?

How many breakers are on the air handler? Can you shut down the one that runs heat strips only to see if the system performs better (note that the air will be colder out the vents)?

Is the graph a report from a thermometer or from the thermostat?

For dealing with existing wiring and no easy way to pull new or additional conductors, I wish manufacturers would offer an option to allow for additional features to be controlled via toggling the switch. For instance, turn the switch on once for the night light, turn the switch on-off-on in a...

I know with the Hubitat hub talking to the Lutron Pro bridge this would be possible (via switch mirroring, or any other program rule). Whether this is possible natively to the switches themselves or via one of the Lutron hubs, I don't know. This appears to be a new requirement. Your first post...

The old Caseta method for dealing with 3 ways (4 ways, etc.) was to replace one of the switches with a Caseta switch (or dimmer) and then remove the rest of the switches and replace them with Pico remotes. Lutron now has expanded the Caseta to the Diva line, which can use traditional 3 way...

What's the insulation situation? Is the water heater in the garage? If so, is it electric? If the answer to both is YES, then maybe a heat pump water heater.

I just watched the installation video on the heater's website (https://drheaterusa.com/products/dr-infrared-heater-dr-975-7500-watt-240-volt-hardwired-shop-garage-electric-heater-wall-ceiling-mounted-with-remote-controlled-thermostat) - it looks like even in wall thermostat mode the remote still...

Good job! If you really want to take it to the next level, pick up another 24V relay and have it interrupt the H leg. Control it from W2 on the thermostat to gain a 2 stage system!