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"...those are mailboxes" lol

Woody - I don't think there's any harm in a little anti-seize on studs. If you torque to the same number you'll technically be stretching the stud a little more, but as long as you don't break anything my sense is it's fine. I've twisted a stud right off trying to remove a lug nut I didn't know...

Well, when you tighten a fastener accurate torque is not even the real goal, accurate pre-load is what you're after. And a torque wrench, even under ideal conditions, is not a particularly accurate way of achieving that goal. Completely different methods are used where it really matters.

Question regarding the the DCF890 - My car has a front caliper bracket bolt, 17mm head, that's kind of a pain to remove. It's in a spot where I can't get a 1/2" drive socket on, even a wobble socket. So it's either use a wrench or a 3/8" socket. The torque spec is, I think, 100 ft-lbs and it...

Sheesh, I just bought a DCD791.

A table saw is a far more useful and productive tool than the alternatives. It's worth it (and not all that difficult) to learn how to use it safely. Lots of good advice in this thread already. I would add a couple of points that are a little less concrete but still important. Before you make...

What do you like better about the SS than say a PM2000 or Unisaw?

I think he was referring to the saw they have set up in the lumber aisle that employees use to make cuts for customers. The HD near me has a panel saw and RAS for this purpose.

I use the Power locks. 12' in the woodshop, 16' and 25' elsewhere. I can't stand chunky tape measures so the Fatmax and many of the other brands are non-starters for me.

The best method is a professional grade battery analyzer. At work we use one made by Cadex. They're not cheap though.

Does anyone know the difference between the $400-500 King 7500W heater and the ~$150 ones from Comfort Zone, ProFusion, etc.?

I have a set of Keiba pliers that are nicely made.

That's incorrect. The difference is in application. A bolt passes through both parts and threads into a nut. A screw passes through one part and threads into a tapped hole in the other. The exact same fastener could be a bolt or a screw depending on how it's used.

I seriously doubt they remade their forging dies a little bit smaller to save a miniscule amount of material. Maybe if they sold tens of millions of pliers per year, but...

Running a chuck down with the drill motor and then not tightening it by hand is such a half-assed way of installing a bit. I can't believe people do it like that and then complain about bits slipping or the chuck coming loose.

Does it start off tight enough but then become loose during use? Supposedly you can lock the chuck by tightening and then backing it off slightly until you hear a click. I talked to Dewalt CS and they confirmed the feature. Might be worth a try before replacing the chuck.

There are plenty of Chinese manufacturers who could make this knife to high quality standards. It's an issue of cost, not COO. Just spitballing here, but I'd expect to pay closer to $100 for this knife, assuming the people making it are meeting decent quality standards and not losing money...

I watched a teardown video showing how the mechanisms work. The design doesn't exactly scream "inexpensive to make in low quantities." But maybe they just haven't found the right people. :dunno:

Manufacturability is just as important to good product design as form and function. If the knife can't be made reliably for a reasonable price, it's not a good design.

Have you tried a router with a template? Maybe plunge a 1/4" bit down and then run along the template to make your clean edge.