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While they will rust if neglected, they don't need to be recoated after every use. I put a coat of paste wax on my Starrett squares every few months and never have problems with rust. My shop is not especially dry either.

whateg01 - I'm surprised to hear that. Their blem tools are supposed to be 100% functional/accurate with only cosmetic issues. I bought 18" and 24" blem combo square blades and the markings line up with a known good reference rule. With those blades some of the markings were not filled in, so I...

I have a Swanson that came in a package deal with their speed square and a Starrett w/forged steel head and satin chrome rule that I bought when I had had enough of the Swanson. The cheap ones are okay. The soft zinc or aluminum heads are easy to scrape into square but they're just not very...

Are you looking for F-style bar clamps or parallel clamps? The Bessey K-bodies that others have recommended are parallel clamps and serve a different purpose than F-style clamps. If you're looking for F-style clamps, I would recommend the German-made Bessey models. These are heavier duty than...

I tend to agree that it's unlikely I'd actually get hurt (still, not worth risking it). What seems more likely with this jack is that I get my car up on jack stands and then I'm unable to lift it back up enough to get it off the stands. In that case I hope my neighbor is home and borrow his jack.

I agree that a new jack may be wise. I might end up regretting it if I keep screwing around with this one. I have my eye on the AC Hydraulics DK20. That's about the same form-factor and seems to have a good reputation. I'm willing to pay more for a quality jack instead of a Harbor Freight or...

I have a Hein Werner WS with a bit of a lifting issue. The jack belonged to my dad and was made probably circa 1980's. It might have been rebuilt once between then and now. With no load, it lifts all the way up no problem. But when I'm lifting a vehicle, it does the following: the first few...

Brief update on the 887 with anvil mod: With a fully-charged 5AH battery, it removes 90 ft-lb lug nuts with no problem...on speed 2! Yeah, didn't even notice I wasn't on the highest speed until the lug nuts were already off. Not so lucky with the caliper bracket bolt. It took off the bottom...

I have the older Klein 6-in-1 precision screwdrivers that are similar in style. They're pretty good quality. Not quite on par with the dedicated Wera precision drivers, but they're good tools. No issues with the rubber grip slipping on mine.

When I've looked into the question of intentional cam-out, I concluded that it is, indeed, a myth. The patent from 1936 (https://patents.google.com/patent/US2046837A/en) makes no mention of the bit camming out of the screw as a feature. Instead it makes several references to "wedging...

dnschmidt - If I'm not mistaken only the #8 x 1 Spax screws can be driven by Robertson bits and ime they still strip much easier than Torx. The #6s are PH only. I'll stick with Torx which neither strips like PH nor gets wedged into the screw requiring the bit be pried out like Robertson. (I...

Possibly, but the 4AH batteries are 10 cell, 5S2P arrangements too. I would think they'd put out close to the same current as the 5AH batteries. I wouldn't expect a difference like you see dropping down to the 5 cell compact batteries. Edit: They do make a 4AH compact battery with 5X 21700...

Steve_P - when you say "struggle" do you mean it doesn't zip them right off like a 1/2" gun would , or you really have to let it rattle for, like, 10+ seconds? There's video out there of a guy torquing nuts on lubed threads to 250 ft-lbs and then (barely) removing them with the 890 after...

I know this isn't your question but if you want to fill in some of those smaller wood screw sizes with torx drive, check out monsterfastener.com. They have #8 x 1 and #6 x 1 wood screws that are torx drive. They also have torx drive #6 screws in other lengths. I sought these out when I had...

vanapplebomb didn't say less total heat, only less heat per cylinder. Seems like that would be true even without a cooler between stages, no?

Okay, let's add some more confusion here... :lol_hitti The DCF890 appears to be the same as the discontinued DCF886 except with a 3/8" square anvil instead of the 1/4" hex chuck. The 886 is the original brushless impact driver, single speed, replaced by the 887. Now for some torque values...

It's a good point, although I'm interested in squeaking out all the power I can from a 3/8" impact wrench for the use-case I described earlier. I'll need to use a universal socket or shallow socket + wobble extension to get to that caliper bracket bolt, so 200 ft-lbs out of the gun won't be...

It's even more confusing when you compare the listed figures for the 12V 3/8" impact wrench (DCF902) and the 20V 3/8" wrench (DCF890). For the 12V tool, they list "max torque" as 200 ft-lbs and in the description, they give 1500 in-lbs (125 ft-lbs) for max tightening torque and 2400 in-lbs (200...

This is nicely executed, but I'm wondering what advantage it has over a simple peg or nail in the wall. It stores the track in the same position it would be hanging from the hole.

Interesting to compare the DCF890 or 887 with 3/8 anvil conversion to the Mac MCF891. The Mac gun looks like the same tool, but it's advertised at 275 ft-lbs breakaway torque. That seems in the ballpark of the actual torque of the 890, doesn't it?