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I like my gearwrench locking flex heads in 1/4" and 3)8" long length for most things. I have a 24" flex head snap on dual 80 which is incredibly strong. I have standard length in all drives but generally the locking flex gets it done. Also a stubby flex snap on 3/8" in a 1/4" body.

Straight snips are only good for cutting banding as far as I'm concerned.

Guess what in the USA ( where this is marketed) sae is still the predominant fastener in just about everything other than automotive. So I guess when something comes in the shop for a hitch or other aftermarket accessories it's ok to round off everything because sae isnt needed

I would invest in a good 6" grinder and quality cutting discs over those bottom of the basement plasmas. On many things I can do a quicker job with the cut off disc considering there is no cleanup of the cut edge with the plasma.

Those 110v stick welders lack the voltage needed to light up an electrode. It takes a given wattage to run an electrode. You set amperage but without enough voltage it won't light up or stay lit up. Inverter welders with arc force or hot start can be especially hard to start and maintain an arc.

I like the esab 7100 dual shield wire. I run the .045 size on a miller 252 with c-25 gas. If running at the higher end you will burn up the factory miller gun. I use a Bernard q-300 gun which handles the high amperage just fine.

In Europe you probably don't have the rust like we do here. If the DeWalt 3/8" atomic is available that will do 90percent of automotive things including lug nuts.

I wouldn't hesitate to use C-25. Proper joint prep is more important in that scenario than the small amount of extra penetration ( or fusion) that CO2 provides.

Apex

Put a 1/4" hex to 3/8" drive adapter in the drill chuck and then use a lisle tap socket. Otherwise a Jacob's ball bearing chuck grips down enough on the round shank to drive a tap.

Belt grinder for me , bench grinder works but it's hard on the wheels.

They do make specialty " scribing calipers" with carbide tipped jaws. Even plain calipers would have to have scribed a shiton of hardened material with insane amount of pressure to ever damage the tips.

That's the perfect use for those useless 3 ton jack stands that aren't high enough for much else.

Prime the cross members with Rust-Oleum " rusty metal primer and either plug weld or stitch weld the decking to it. Afterwards reprime and paint the underside. You could fluid film everything for more protection but at some point you can only do so much short of having it galvanized dipped

You can buy a hell of a lot of endmills for the cost of a tool and cutter grinder. Not to mention that the endmills will cut undersize after sharpening.

If you need holes that deep, either one will come up short. Unless it's rocky ground ( then neither one will work good) it wouldn't be that bad digging them by hand.

Get a carbide endmill, clamp vise tight together with a sacrificial shim and mill it in place.

Use a bearing seperator and a bar type puller. The bearing seperator is tapped to accept studs that attach to the bar puller. Another option is to remove the seal and see if a slide hammer hook can grip the ball portion of the bearing . On the one that's recessed, I would weld studs on the...

Acme thread

You have nothing to worry about with a #0 tip, even a #3 cutting tip would be ok. Intermittent use changes thing in the 1 in 7 rule as far as I'm concerned. If your really doing a lot of heating a large rosebud running on propane is a good option.