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The Milwaukee blades last the longest in my experience. Use a strait edge guide to keep the blade from twisting and keep the depth of cut so less than half of the cutting edge on a tooth protrudes thru the material.

Most welding gas " regulators" are actually flowmeters, not pressure regulators other than the single reduction of pressure.

I believe your mistaken, 10-15 cfh. Most regulator/ flowmeters are set to a higher pressure, that's why you get that initial " fifth" surge when you hit the trigger.

You need to be more specific about what your attempting to do. If it's cross members just use the cross member bolt kits. For 1)4" fasteners an import 1/4" pneumatic rivit gun will get it done.

Axe

That's exactly why they have that large knob on the clutch, to rapidly take up the chain. Much easier to take up the slack with a chain come along than with a chain hoist

The 3/4 metric ton ones are very useful, preferably a 10' or 20' chain. Not too heavy but still powerful. I use them all the time for straightening and alignment in addition to lifting. Generally less headroom than a chain hoist so that's a big plus

Not all Logan's are lighter than Sheldon lathes. My Logan powermatic 6565 has 1-5/8" spindle bore with a 5hp motor. It weighs in close to 2,000 lbs

British pipe thread is a different pitch, I believe 28tpi and npt is 27tpi. What you described going in 1-1-1/2 threads sounds about right if mismatched.

Why tapcons? Put a real anchor in there and consider it done. I would use archaic bags and shields before those POS tapcons.

Mk Morse 8-11 pitch is the coarsest I found.

Gearwrench 120xp.

Martin and snap on are the only ones I know who make 12 point crowfoot wrenches. The opening on 12 or is larger enabling you to get over most hydraulic hoses. I believe they go up to 1-1/16" in 3/8 drive. I bought the snap on set years ago and they are excellent for lines in a cluster. I bought...

I cut loads of aluminum tubing on radial arm saws and woodworking chop saws. A decent 60 tooth carbide blade on a 10" saw is about right. A little wax on the blade helps clear the chips and keeps them from sticking to the blade.

Using a mill to make holes in some setups is a pita. Having a vise and or rotary table on the mill often means removal and dialing it back in. Also in the home shop that usually also means firing up a phase converter just to pop in simple holes that often aren't part of a precise layout. Many...

Smith makes a dedicated heating tip that fits the cutting head. Kind of handy as you don't have to worry about hitting the oxy jet.

I'm well aware of all that after using torches for over 40 years. I was correcting your statement about the only way to get more heat was to up your tip size. BTW a #1 tip isn't necessarily the same throughout all manufacturers.

Not really. You can get " heavy preheat" tips in the common sizes for the popular brands( Smith, Victor and Harris). Typically those tips will require slightly more fuel than normal preheat tips .

Just AC current? 25-50$