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There is a seal above that hole. Just use it a while and see if it quits, unless it is pouring out. One of my lifts had a slow leak and I got a product I have used in the past and it softened and expanded the seal, no leaks in 8 years so far. It is called SealnLube, got it on eBay.

Try www.quickflashproducts.com I use some of their items.

I recently installed a 6 zone LG unit for someone. It was all ceiling cassettes, it looked good quality, it had two remote control valves I mounted in the attic. After evacuating and charging it worked fine. Too early for me to know how it holds up. I Have also installed YMGI and Midea with...

You could get an outdoor access point that would get the signal over there and other places as well. I am on 15 acres and I use an Egenius brand, they have several models. You mount them outside wired with cat 5 and the power is also sent up to it with the same wire.

Some sealers from stores are latex, they are not too good, having been in the road business, we always used the products from the quarries. They usually sell the real oil based sealers like Conoco and others. You may be able to help yours with some sand, broom it on and leave it for a few days...

I 'm with the matt i, those are too smooth to work with epoxy, they look like anchors that take a tapered plug in the bottom to expand them. Wedge anchors will work if the hole is not already too large. If you want expoxy then use the threaded rod and clean like others said.

I have mine out of both shops, in it's own space along with my standby generator. Check my albums for a picture.

I did like the other person said I have mine on 240v, and split into two groups so if I do not need them all at once I have the option. In my auto shop I split them in to three areas, in that part I used 22 400w HID.

On small bits you want to keep the speed up so they won't catch. They are drill guides available for holes, that way you would stay centered better.

Yes, the top doesn't really hold much, some people like to shim the top, I like a solid board if the surfaces are paralell. Just don't make it tight. Make sure the bottom of the door clears your flooring material or mats or is adjusted to the threshold if you have any of those items.

If you aren't too far from a lumber yard that is near a SFRA, that is where the code calls for a fire wall on the entire house. In the mountainous area. They may have it.

We use stucco or scratch coat with veneer stone.

I did not catch the DIY , i use the regular version due to tubing length, ceiling cassette availbility, splitter valves and so on , but I DIY anyway.

I got plastic blades for mine as th OE ones warped. If you will get wind you need to tie the blades.

Keep in mind the compressors are only charged up to centain footage of tubing and you must still evacuate the system prior to allowing the charge to enter.

Concrete strength would be at least 2000 psi, after 7 days unless they supplied a very sub-standard mix. The soil and prep below is often the weakest link. I would use solvent, paint thinner or lacquer thinner before I tried soap. One person mentioned tide and that works mainly because it...

That product is called insulated metal panel. They go together with a t&g joint, airtight, they are used on steel building because they can span where you do not have studs. One maker is kingspan, there may be others in your area.

I use them on a regular basis once the slab has 14 days to cure. The the tire marks usually come off with a pressure washer or some TSP.

You may want to check the manual, usually the one in the heater is disconnected when a remote is connected.

I would check to see if the building department or gas supplier have any regulations that would apply.