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Planning is everything.

My little floor mount grinder.

I use one of these. http://www.engeniusworks.com/ENH202.asp It covers my 15 acres and beyond, but I have cat underground into shop as the double steel wall keeps out signal really well. Everything has its drawbacks.

What kind of tile? Most tile is laid from the center, either a grout line or seam would be on the ceter line, if that leaves a cut tile of less than 1/2 of a full tile then you would center a full tile and then you would have a cut tile on each side that is larger than 1/2 of a full tile before...

I would use some of the same metal you have on the outside. For the window get a piece glass with a frame and install it so it can be removed for replacement like a storm window for the inside. I build a lot of steel buildings and I quit using that method in favor of insulated panels, metal on...

Why not use a metal building and the plans come with it? Just a thought.

Water jetting is a bad way as it leaves voids. Weld a plate on a piece of steel pipe long enough to go under, drive it in about 6" at a time, knock it back out hitting the plate, empty out the dirt and keep going.

I am not sure how you got that footage with those dimensions. But anyway if it is painted now the biggest job is going to be scuffing the surface for good adhesion. One of the best paints for building metal is Kynar 500. If you can't get that then I would use Dunn Edwards evershield. Also...

As a former underground contractor I have put in hundreds of strings then tied them to larger stronger pull tape or rope. Oh I almost forgot the real secret, tie the string to a heavy duty balloon inflated as need and it will flex as needed, **** it through with a shop vac.

I have always done it myself without subs, buying materials only and the savings is about 65% for the labor. You can just hire a helper for heavy or 2 person jobs. That way you may be able to afford to go bigger or add some features.

Do you have a picture ? Are you taking about the large blade and small blade are different?

Is it cylindrical shape with threads on one and a rod sticking out? That is a front servo gauge for cast iron hydra-matic transmissions(gm) 50s vintage, that allows you to get the correct band adjustment, it has caibrated spring inside.

Since torx head bolts are round maybe a sted extractor or a pipe wrench if there is room, I also hit it inward to loosen it .

I like Armourpoxy with urethane top coat. You could put a rubber pad on your kickstand or a piece of conveyor belt from quarries that you can just keep around the shop. I keep it around and put heavy machinery on pieces of it.

Pre- compaction is always a good thing, use enough limestone, we call baserock in the west, to make the stones flush with the driveway, if you want slope then slope the limestone, mix water the stone enough to make it stick together but not make it mushy, put water on the existing stone before...

I have been installing refrigeration lines in wall for 43 years, in the old days they went to A coils in the forced air plenum, today it is mini split. I have never seen a copper line wear out yet.

Whatever you decide just stay within the code so your not on the hook someday. http://www.thedailymeal.com/news/travel/valley-fire-caused-faulty-hot-tub-wiring/081216

I would put in another outlet there, about the same work as a junction box and may get used some day.

I also have that lift and lift my quad cab Dodge Diesel, I have both a 2500 and 3500. I also used it on a Unimog, took a little blocking as the underside is odd.

Get Insteon rocker swithes.