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It wouldn't help with the clearance, but outrigger pads like they use on boom trucks might work. If they buckle do two thick. Some are reinforced polymer. I know you are going for making the process easier, but it might be good to dig out a bit of dirt to get clearance. I have one I picked up...

There was a local Ace hardware that was closing, I bought all their Craftsman 10mm wrenches and sockets at $1 each. Stocking stuffers for years, repeats welcome.

About a year late to the game, but picked up a couple of Knipex pliers. The dual action and the XD water pump (Cobra) pliers.

Biggest thing for tightening is to start the fastener by hand to avoid any issues with cross threading (use anti-seaze as appropriate). Although cross threading is the best loctite.... Anything that has torque specs should probably be hand tightened. Impact wrenches typically have more torque...

I wouldn't worry about the metal that crumbled, it wasn't structural and you have a good bit of metal between the edge and the bolt hole. If anything, chamfer it with a grinder. For the table top, Johnson's Paste Wax is always a good opiton.

I just received mine. Current price was $36.96. Definitely unique pliers, I will have to put them to use before I decide if I like them or not.

If you happen to have Milwaukee M12 tools, their soldering iron is great. Heats up quick, and lasts a good while for a battery powered unit. It is a little bulky, so I wouldn't want it for fine work.

30 amp and about a 15' run. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

You are right in your evaluation. Contract did stipulate electric to code, although it sounds like having the breaker box on the outside, with all the NM-b wires from the whole house going into it, might not be to code. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Every circuit in the house runs to this breaker box with NM-b, all but 3 of the circuits come through the back of the box. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

The PVC going in the top is guess into a threaded coupling secured with a nut inside and sealed with silicon. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Oops. I could easily change the wire for the dryer, what wire would be to code? I figured it would be fine with the hard conduit. It would be hard to get any thing through the original interior chase. I had suggested using one of the abandoned 240 wires (went from electric to gas appliances)...

In a major house remodel, added a 240 plug in the laundry for an electric dryer. Ran a single 10/3 through a new conduit out the top of the breaker box through the eve. A sub contracted electrician later ran some new circuits and ran 2 - 12/2 wires through some poorly installed flex into the...

I have two, both Ryan made in USA. They are full tang with a striking plate. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

I have an M18 fuel 1/4 driver that was completely submerged for a few minutes. It still works, with some quirks. Sometimes you have to smack the **** out of it on a hard surface to make is work, and sometimes it won't switch between speeds unless you take the battery off and reinstall it. Sent...

I have the 3 ton the OP listed, I would agree that if you have a car go with the low profile version. I may have to look at the low profile version when mine bites the dust. They are a great value for the price, mine has been going strong for about 5 years.

Tape measures are #1 for me, for sure. Pencils are #2. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

I found this phamplet in the Attic of my new (to me) house. Dated 3/73. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

I have the same grinder at home too, I will take the 9.0 home and give it a try. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

My 9.0s overheat fairly fast on the grinder, and they seem to fault until they go on the charger, even if they are near full charge. The only too they seem to overheat on is the grinder. Now I generally use the 5.0 on the grinder and save the 9.0 for really anything else. Vacuum, weedeater...