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Me too. Remember Gibbs' rules. Rule #39: There is no such thing as a coincidence.

A piece like that could easily be polypropylene, too. PP is almost an engineering thermoplastic, but for its heat distortion temperature. If it is PP, a waxy polyolefin, it's harder to bond adhesively. I lean more toward VHB tape in that regard.

Who knows where 0.84 W/bulb comes from anyway. That may be packaging created (presumably in China, yes) for the manufacturing process of several years ago, and not reflective of exactly what you have. +1 on @rlitman's recommendation to try a Kill A Watt meter.

The orientation in the photo is simple shear (one plane sliding against another). Most adhesives are strong under shear stress. I like that one. The orientation you're using, with one plane in tension perpendicular to the other is in peel. That's a tough one. The stress is concentrated on...

I've never seen that kind before. It's kind of nifty. You're not planning to dig into an airbag are you? (Yikes!)

Yeah, debonding of the epoxy from the smooth glass surface is a possibility, even if the surface chemistry is favorable. What kind of stress and in what direction will the hook see? Maybe run a few experiments on the benchtop before doing the real thing? Another option -- depending on the...

ABS is a logical choice -- quite likely. It's a decent one for bonding, too. 2-component epoxy would be a fine choice. I'd probably use a filled epoxy to minimize dimensional changes with temperature. For weatherability, if it makes sense, paint the polymer and the adhesive line with a good...

"Plastic" is a broad term. What specific polymer are you trying to bond to the glass?

I made a set of jumper cables out of welding cable circa 1982 and I still have ‘em (and use them, albeit increasingly less often).. That’s a fine way to go.

@woody 73, most interesting, as always. I was sorta expecting a connection to Union Fork and Hoe. As a former Columbusite (me, that is), have you ever done a research piece on that company?

Probably a Kel-Lite -- the original. Maglite started in 1979.

My dad taught me to use short wood beams for cribbing as a kid 55+ years ago. He learned it, almost certainly, from his father, who worked for years as a rigger of heavy machinery. Here's my grandfather on some sort of steam shovel dismantling project in northeastern Ohio in (probably) the...

Good question. I definitely like the Megadora series in general best of all Vessel drivers. I alternate between the 900-series (knurled shaft, non-striking, light) and the 930-series (hex-bolstered shaft, striking cap, heavier). I can't say one's better than the other -- just different...

I‘d use spray foam-in-a-can. It's rigid and light, and easy to cut flush when cured. With the open back on these (typically) thermoformed trays there'd be virtually no pressure trying to bow or distort the tray. Like a balloon, the foam is gonna go where there's no restraint, which would be...

Vessel. Almost everything else I have has been retired or downgraded to junk duty.

What does the GJ community think of the different styles of tamper-resistant nuts? There are conical grooved nuts, steeply-tapered square nuts, two-hole spanner nuts, and other kinds of keyed nuts. Probably quite a few types in addition to the examples shown below. I'd appreciate any...

Is your project capable of being powder coated? There are some powders that approximate a hammered finish and there are lots of "bronze-ish" colors There might be some experiments worth conducting with brush-on Rustoleum hammered-finish paints to see if a blend of dark bronze and gold and/or...

Fluid Film works for me and is less messy than antisieze.

Stained glass pliers. Or, I guess, glass work in general.

Hah! It is indeed! I gotta find the right RK/Stihl one then and update my original post. I thought the one in my mind was bigger and more impressive than the one I first clicked on. (It was a VIDEO panning the display. Now I need to see if I saved that one.)