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I'd check very carefully the weld where the I-beam meets the upright. I'd be tempted to gusset that with some sort of triangle above or below the jib.

SuperClean (the purple stuff) and a bottle brush. And don't ever count on repairs to polyolefins (polypropylene, polyethylene, etc.). The polymer is too wax-like for almost anything to stick to it, and welding/filling is difficult to get right (and never as good as original). Cutting it in...

Those bits and pieces should work fine on a 12V **** splice. But what wire, and especially what circuit, are you splicing? Good crimps will be fine on almost any 12V circuit, but when I've removed previous-owner car alarms on two Tacomas now, I've soldered the main ignition circuit wire when...

I use these, cousins to yours. Vessel socket drivers/nut drivers are not common, and I've never seen any that were inch-based.

I'm a fan of almost everything Vessel makes. My latest addition -- this two-way driver (No. 400PD2). Two times two ways, in fact, as it holds both 1/4" square drive and 1/4" (6.35 mm) hex, and the handle flips 90° to give more leverage. Well made, as expected; the 1/4" square/hex is knurled...

If they’re powder coated, the color is probably one of the RAL series managed by that German organization. Some googling will help you narrow down the multiple grays in the RAL system. I have a RAL swatchbook, which is handy but not that common. A local powder coater might have samples you...

I'd guess something shipboard.

EPDM, "ethylene propylene diene monomer", is a type of synthetic rubber. It's a terrific material choice for long-term exposure outside, with high resistance to UV and ozone. It's commonly used as the membrane sheeting on flat roofs. I'm thinking to order the EPDM replacement seals originally...

Looks like some of my older Kleins. Especially the rubber part sliding off...

Ouch! I’m not sure anything is as bad as Scotchloks! I’ve had decent luck with zip tie mounts. That’s using VHB, not standard 3M tape, and making sure the mounting surface is solvent-cleaned and completely dry.

Why not the small postage stamp-sized plastic squares that mount with 3M VHB pressure-sensitive adhesive and have a small raised slot in the center that will allow a zip tie to pass through? I’ve used those successfully for years. They’d easily fit anyplace you’d like to secure your harness...

Polyurethane polymers have lots of advantages, but long life is rarely one of them. It’s common for PU to self-destruct as it ages. The process is sometimes called hydrolysis, but it’s more complicated than just that. It’s irreversible and fatal. I still miss my old Blue Point deadblow...

I like it!

Over the years in my industrial chemistry labs I’ve used several “roller”-style mixer/tumbler/agitators. They’ve ranged from homebuilt rollers using old typewriter carriage platens, plywood, a gear-reduction motor, and O-ring drive belts to purpose-built lab gear. They’ve all worked very well...

Exactly what I used to hold my door extra-high to clear the crossbars and bike fork-mount carrier tray on the canopy shell of my Gen 2 Tacoma.

All my best thoughts were stolen by the ancients. - Ralph Waldo Emerson

Boy, that thing has a bit of a dollar store look to it. Maybe ‘cause it reminds me of a rubber mallet I got for a buck at Kresge’s in my home town when I was in high school in the early 1970s. (A mallet I still have and still use!)

The aluminum foil tip works amazingly well on hard chrome plating!

OSHA has a standard safety orange too, ISTR. Might be worth checking that one too.

A colleague in Central Ohio in the 1980s repaired the lower door skins of his early-70s Suburban by covering them with window screen and saturating with multiple coats of driveway sealer. It looked like **** — possibly because he left the black repair on a beige truck. It probably woulda...