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When I was younger and less experienced I would destroy Subaru studs, they break so easy. I would use the same torque stick as every other car and they’d break while torquing. It sucked

On rounded fasteners at work, sometimes an impact socket will slip where a chrome will not. I don’t attribute it to chromes having a “better fit” I just think the impacts are worn from impacting. They’re designed to wear instead of crack and shatter. They take a lot more beating than my chromes...

We had a Cornwell guy not that long ago. Unfortunately no one really bought anything from him because they don’t tend to stick around. They had good deals occasionally and I bought a thing or two. I really only buy snap on now, it’s almost guaranteed you’ll have a snap on truck wherever you...

I’m going to be honest with you, the times that a impact socket will be “too thick” are going to be so minimal. I’ve been wrenching 8 years and I can only think of one time that it happened. Get a quality impact set, and a decent chrome set. Or just get the duo, I’m sure it will be fine.

Thank you for being the only one to agree with me that the 2767 is not as great as they say. My ir 2235ti eats it for lunch. It’s good for what it is, but I found if it doesn’t immediately break a bolt free, it’s just not going to.

Depends on what you’re doing. Light work 16 oz is fine. Here in the rust belt I mainly use a 40 oz ball peen for auto work. I have a 4lb sledge for when things are serious. If you’re just driving a punch I usually use my 16 oz

Cash talks, today I’m buying the 1/2 torque angle, 500 cash. No tax either bc he can make that happen with cash purchase.

I haven’t used atd, but my co workers have some and they worked fine. I have a set of sunex impact sockets that I used a lot when I was working on semi trucks. They’re also good. Can’t go wrong with sunex impact sockets in my opinion. If I could do it again, those would probably be the only ones...

I see the obvious advantages for regular chrome grip, but as a mechanic after using tools all day sometimes my hands really hurt and cramp up. Especially near my palms, they’ll swell up bad, for that I usually go with comfort grip. Only problem is if you need a cheater chances are you’re...

in my opinion if you have a good air supply there's no need. if you don't by all means do it. die grinders use a lot of air, so a cordless one is awesome

I think ds808 it is. I need something more than mk808. And for 300 more it does a hell of a lot more

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744JBC7W/?tag=atomicindus08-20 this is what I was looking at. mk 808 says bi directional? I feel like its misleading at that price. ds808 seems to be best option. I don't wanna pay for tpms I don't even wanna deal with that

Awesome think I’ll go with the 906. Does most things and affordable priced, I realize no one scan tool does everything. I’ll look at launch too, I have a launch tiny check engine light reader I really liked

Thanks so much guys. Bi directional is huge deal, just all the Autel numbers confuse me. What is the most affordable, autel with bi directional? Thing is im working at a honda dealer so other brands aren’t the main focus, but want to be able to do them instead than shipping out work.

this was one I was looking into as well. easy to use?

also if you suggest an autel what is the difference between the ten or so different scanners they have, im not looking for it to be an ecm programming monster, just something that will help so were not sending everything out. we should have something other than a tiny code reader for cel

I'm working at a Honda dealership, and we frequently get other makes (used cars) in with some problems. Customer has a warranty comes for service yada yada. Problem is, we only have a Honda scan tool. So whenever its something more than a simple check engine light, like something that needs an...

it is nice to have though when you're working on rusty things. A lot of times ill break something free by hand and about halfway through the fuel ratchet still doesn't even cut it. gotta break it free again with a hand ratchet or the fuel and it gets to be a pain.

The 2763 was the first one I had issues with Here’s both of them in this video. I sent it in four time and four times it broke within two weeks of them “fixing it” by broke I mean same issue as before: Got tired of warranting that so bought the new one. 2767 was dead on arrival never...

Is that Makita? I have a co worker who swears by those, he's had some of the old ones for 15 years he said. Only thing he's replaced is batteries but that's understandable.