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Thanks for the insightful comment. I ordered a pair and will try some cutting. Also, I had the same thought as you that the larger wheel may not have been intended for my tool.

Thanks. I meant that the shoulder dia of the orig wheel is 50" and the replacement is .375", and overall dia of orig is 13/16". I'm wondering if RW121 is unsuitable due to being slightly smaller in these respects?

Thanks, I want to use it for cutting domestic copper pipes (which I guess qualifies as tubing). I always called them copper pipe but i guess thats incorrect. I saw the RW121 earlier but noticed the flange width is a little smaller. Do you think that makes any difference? I see Long C Logo...

Thanks, i may bring my caliper to the store as you suggest. There is a plumbing place nearby too. Any idea how old it is? That Craftsman logo looks unusual to me.

Hi, I acquired this at a sale yesterday. I'm trying to find a new cutting wheel. Seems that all ads refer to a tool make/model. Can anyone assist with what wheel is correct? The cutter appears to be a Craftsman #5533 cutter, per Craftsman it was intended to use a #5529 wheel. My wheel has...

Hi, i bought this at a garage sale over the weekend. Id like to get a new cutting wheel but they only seem to be advertised by tool. anyone know what to replace this wheel with? The cutter seems to be a Craftsman #5533 , and per Craftsman it was intended to use a #5529 wheel. My wheel has...

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:-) Guess I've gotten attached to this old guy. Or maybe I can find one with a bad moveable part and good stationary part.

Thanks, your explanation sounds pretty good. I also had a theory that the casting was bad from the factory and the makers compensated by using a jaw that was slanted along the bottom. Its too bad I found this.

I remeasured the jaws and got a different thickness. On closer inspection (see new photo of jaw front and underside), casting is thicker on right than on left (looking from beneath no sign the surface was changed on left), and jaw is thinner on right and thicker on left. Is this sloppy...

That's an idea but I don't want to wreck another vise. I see there's a gentleman who makes jaws for antique vises online but they are quite expensive relative to my goal. Maybe I could buy mild steel bar stock and cut/drill myself? Don't know how to make diagonals on face of jaws though...

Goal is usable vise but I like it and want nice appearing jaws with grip.

Hi, I acquired this Ward's vise in the 80s at a yard sale. I'v seen a few posts about similar. Trying to find new steel serrated jaws (see attached drawing with dimensions. Holes are centered vertically). Anyone have any idea where I can get some, or does anyone on forum make them? Also...

I'm a little late to the show, but I love my Wright #2 Phillips. The handle has a large dia with nice grippable flutes and the tip seems indestructible.

Thanks so much! I ordered one for $11.

Ok, this is great. I tried your number and call didn't go through and used Phone: +1 660 826 0960 instead. I was able to order the slide for $11 and its under a different part number. Thanks so much!

Thanks very much. I had read in a thread somewhere that they went out of business, but will call.

Hi, I have a Waterloo PMX2604 26" 4 drawer ball bearing tool chest. One of the slides on the bottom drawer (right-hand) is broken and I'm trying to find a replacement. Toolbox: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B000K1EVM2/ Part number marked on slide is: 27845-U-R. I see it used to be sold on Amazon...

I found that catalog too in my search. I need the actual owner's manual. Thanks

Hi, I have a RAM R-120 sander from the 60's that I disassembled for cleaning. Though I took photos, there are a few part placement questions i have. Does anyone have a manual with a parts list and exploded view diagram that I can view? thanks Mitch