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Has to be a sticker inside with some info, right?

You can buy Re-Verber-Ray online at H-mac, along with many other brands & products. Beleive you have to check a box during checkout that you will have a qualified installer put it in, pretty much to cover them legally I'm sure....

The system setup is a good find and the right way to do it. In this system Aux and Emergency are not the same wire...Aux is white and Emergency is black, at least that's what my eyes see. So setting tstat to Emergency would bring on Fan plus the strip heat without compressor. Aux would only...

It's not really the thickness that matters, it's the merv or efficiency rating. As long as you stay in the 8-10 range you should be fine. Too restrictive limits airflow and leads to heat exchanger damage. The thickness is worthwhile in that you get more pleated surface area and therefore much...

With a true polarity fault none of the tstat input stuff matters, it's the 120v input power, transformer power/phasing, and ground. The micro is looking at those signals only. That's why if they are confirmed good it's most likely a failed pcb.

That's pretty much standard. For example, Y is compressor demand from Tstat, and then the second Y wire is it being sent to the OD unit contactor. Same with the common, to the tstat and to the OD unit. :thumbup:

My own system, i'd prolly swap the Red and blue wires right under the fuse, just to see. Those are the transformer secondaries, and swapping them might make the pcb happier re polarity. Of course I have a free stash of replacement boards stacked like firewood at work so it would be an...

Ok, just checking. A unit that has worked for years doesn't just "lose" polarity all of the sudden unless supply wires get swapped. A transformer also needs to be in phase with line voltage so a change out can screw that up, but you are clear there. Other culprit can be a poor ground. Hate...

Was the transformer changed out during your previous work on the unit?

That is correct and probably what you are after.

Oh I know you got it, just trying to make sure OP understands strip heat gets turned on by more than one source. :beer:

Defrost is turned on by the board in the outdoor unit, so removing aux won't affect that. If you also want that disabled them you have to disconnect the appropriate wire in the air handler or at the pump...or install a simple lockout tstat in the outdoor unit and create a set point.

Do you want them to come on during a defrost? That won't happen if you kill a breaker. To answer direct, yes that should work. Looks like you will still have Emergency hooked up so you can manually switch them on if the heat pump craps. I guess the only downside i see is it you are gone for...

H-Mac Systems has served me well.

My house sits on a good bit of shelf rock that slows drainage. All the regrading and downspout extensions helped but heavy heavy rains still brought issues. I bought a sump basket, drilled a bunch of holes in it, and dropped it into a oversized hole backfilled with plenty of gravel...

Comm isn't needed for two stage, legacy is fine, but best to use a true 2H2C thermostat in that application.

Heck I could unscrew a metal panel and walk right into mine since it's unfinished....

https://www.lennoxpros.com/news/the-proper-way-to-ohm-a-single-phase-compressor COMP in your wiring diagram, looks like BLU for Start, YEL for Run, and BLK for Common

Trane offers Zwave based thermostats, so they may be able to integrate with your existing home automation. They make good stuff, but it's only as good as the installer. I'd probably go online and look for reviews for a good Trane dealer, let him spec out some details and a quote...then you can...

I worked for Sherwin-Williams years ago. We were told the basic formulations were pretty much the same, but the quantity of pigmentation added for exterior is much more basically to account for UV/color fading. Same reason some of the reds and yellows aren't made available, fade too fast...