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Kind of doubt you did any damage, thats one reason the limit is there. I mean, furnaces with dead blowers try to fire all the time, limit opens and it shuts down. Boards prove the inducer with a pressure switch, but dont prove the blower. Btw you should have a stored fault code confirming...

I've had good luck using Penofin oil, then maintaining with the Spray & Forget product. Deck stays clear 2-3 years, longer for roof shingles and siding.

I'd post your specific electrical questions in the Lighting & Electrical sub forum, you'll likely get some solid advice from some experts who know the code issues.

Well your in Milwaukee so time is a bit short. Finding a concrete guy right now can be pretty tough in many areas. You might consider diy a nice rock area and something like an EZ Pad to get yourself up and running quickly this year. Then you could always revisit next spring if you decide you...

TD= temp delta/difference of supply air versus return air.

Mestek (Sterling) is a respected brand, been around for years. Like most HVAC I suspect the gas valve, blower, control board, switches, etc come from a very small pool of similar suppliers. I didn't dig into the specific spes to ensure its an apples to apples features comparison, but if so I'd...

Its pretty much a rebranded Lennox Merit series unit, nothing bad to say about them.

Trapline brand traps are super effective once you learn to set and use them. Ive killed over 60 moles a year with them on my 5 acre lot.

Appreciate the comments. EBay sellers move quite a few, maybe its more to the diy for basic low cost/risk parts changing.

I didn't want to hijack the other thread. Question for any Pros here....what percentage of time might you replace the flame sensor instead of cleaning it...since it is relatively low cost? Any reasons why/why not? Appreciate the insight.....full disclosure, will use your input for some...

I have a set, love them. I also have the minis for the rear wheels to level the car a bit more.

I have 2000 sq ft home with a 4 ton heat pump in the St Louis area. Tapped off 5 supplys and added 2 returns for finished basement of 1200 sq ft with a bedroom/bathroom/family room. No issues at all, has not impacted upstairs. I spent some time tweaking the variable speed blower to push the...

Does the system have zone dampers in the ductwork? All I can think is a mostly/completely blocked supply so air is "backflowing"...but i'd think it would trip a limit super fast??? Weird....

I really like Race Ramps, so easy to move and store with their light weight....unless you are dying to make your own.

Therm-o-disc 60tx series

Not here. My 2013 flat rate pricing book has the complete job at $1,585.86 for a stadard efficiency 3-5t unit. I was low, but adding for inflation still isn't a $3,500 job, at least not in the STL area.

I would have guessed $1000-$1500 range ballpark. How old is this unit?

I believe the bulb is a sensor for a thermostat...it looks like it was probably removed from the front of the unit, but that's a guess on my part. It would have been filled with a "charge" that would create pressure changes against an internal bellows to signal changes...pretty old school...

Agree, a minisplit would be most efficient choice. OP asked for options, and it would be equal to or better than a window AC + electric heater. Being in TX he might be ok. Keep an eye out, inverter PTACs are beginning to be a thing and the new product releases will likely continue.

A PTAC heat pump like used at hotels would kinda fall in between Falcon's solution, and a mini split. You can easily buy the thru-the-wall sleeve for them to mount it. Using an extra fan to move air like a ceiling fan it might be a decent solution.